Wednesday, 15 October 2014

Ken Muir - Strawberry 'Gariguette' - Pack of 12.

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Ken Muir - Strawberry 'Gariguette' - Pack of 12
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By planting a strawberry bed in the early fall months, the strawberry plants are able to fully establish themselves and their root system prior to going dormant for the winter.  Then, as the temperatures rise in the late winter or early spring months, a fully-rooted and more mature plant begins to put forth new foliage and flower stalks.  Instead of pinching off the strawberry flowers so that the roots can establish, the already-established roots pull water and nutrients from the soil to support the growing strawberries.  This allows a healthy harvest during the first growing season instead of the second!
Additionally, most mail order nurseries will ship strawberry plugs with intact roots for fall planting.  This helps the plants establish more quickly than bareroot plants and helps minimize the number of plants that die (more plugs survive than do shipped and planted bareroot plants).
Why not consider buying and planting some fall strawberry plants instead of waiting until the spring?!
The most important, however, is so that you do not have to pinch or snip the flowers off of your spring-planted strawberries.  Yay for 1st-year harvests!
- Borage helps - one borage plant every 1 m in the center of the matted row should be sufficient.
Space the strawberry plants at least 35 centimetres apart.
Leave at least 60 centimetres between rows of strawberries.

Cover the plants in late fall with 4 more inches of straw mulch. Leave this on all winter, until you see strawberry leaves take on a yellow tint in the spring. When frosts are forecast, add a wool blanket on top for additional protection. Secure the blanket over the bed by placing bricks at the corners. Remove the blanket when the cold spell breaks. Sensitive strawberries can die from cold damage if not protected.

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