Showing posts with label Raspberries. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Raspberries. Show all posts

Wednesday 15 May 2019

Raspberry: growing, planting, pruning and tips on caring.

- strawberries have a useful life of three to five years.
Raspberries, on the other hand, are immortal.

There are many variations on the recipe, but essentially it’s just all your favourite Scottish ingredients – toasted oatmeal, whisky, raspberries, heather honey and cream – mixed or layered together.





- Raspberry 'Joan J'
10 Canes per bundle. Late fruiting variety, early for primocane, starting to pick in late July to October. High yielding, Lge fruit of good flavour. Spineless canes. Cut down late Nov-March. Supplied Bare Root, availbale from November to Feburary
£ 12.00
- Rubus idaeus 'Joan J' (PBR) (F) | raspberry 'Joan J'/RHS Gardening
'Joan J' is an autumn-fruiting cultivar with upright, spine-free canes that produce a good crop of red berries with good size and flavour.
Mulch with acidic material such as composted bark.
Prune all canes to ground level in late winter
- BBC Two - Gardeners' World, 2018, Episode 2, How to plant raspberries
- A foolproof guide to growing raspberries - Telegraph
The most popular raspberry varieties are summer-fruiting.
Like their close relative the blackberry, the canes are essentially biennial, growing one year and fruiting the next.
Thus, fruit is produced in summer, following on directly from the strawberry season.
But there is another type of raspberry that fruits in autumn, and this is the one I want to try to persuade you to grow, for several reasons:
- Summer raspberries are simple enough to grow, but there’s always that awkward moment when you have to cut down the fruited canes while leaving the new canes to fruit next year. It is surprisingly easy, crawling around with secateurs in hand, to snip accidentally through one of the new canes. But, since autumn raspberries grow and fruit in a single season, you simply cut the whole lot down and new ones spring forth.
What could be simpler?
Gardening books generally recommend cutting the old canes down in late winter, but why, for heaven’s sake?
The tradition in the Thompson garden is to pick the last raspberries on November 5, cut down the canes and throw them straight on the annual bonfire.
Job done, and nothing to do until you start picking again the following August.

The RHS recommends tying canes individually to a wire support, and summer-fruiting varieties do need this to survive winter gales.
Here again, however, autumn varieties are easier — I just have a length of old washing-line tied round posts at the four corners of my row, and that’s all the support they need.
If you grow short, sturdy 'Autumn Bliss’ in a sheltered spot you might well manage without any support at all.
One thing’s for sure — the elaborate structure you may have seen Monty Don using on Gardeners’ World for his raspberries is unnecessary for the autumn variety.
The main reason you’re advised to replace raspberry canes every 10 years or so is to prevent a build-up of viruses and other diseases.
But autumn varieties tend to be disease-free since the long period without canes helps to reduce the “bridge” between seasons that encourages diseases to keep going.
Autumn raspberries are out of sync with the dreaded raspberry beetle, so it’s rare to find maggots in your fruit.
Raspberries tend to be less damaged by birds than strawberries anyway, and autumn varieties are particularly trouble-free; bird damage to my raspberries is negligible.

- Planting out raspberry canes... again - Mail Online - David Derbyshire's Allotment Blog

Thursday 15 June 2017

Raspberry Fallgold (Autumn Fruiting).

Ever-bearing.
Primocane varieties produce flowers and fruit on stems grown in the same year.
Most Autumn fruiting varieties are primocanes producing fruit in their first year of growth.

The 'Fall Gold' is a self-fertilizing, double cropping raspberry bush.
The first crop arrives in August and the second in October.
After the first harvest, cut the stems back to ground level.
After winter, prune only the dry part of the stems (those which bore fruit in the autumn).
It is from these stems that the first crop will arrive the following summer.
'Fall Gold 'raspberries are firm, medium sized, scented and very tasty.
You can train your raspberry bush along a fence or against a pergola.

A rare, exciting self-fertile gold raspberry with the same delicious sweet taste of red varieties, and with the ability to produce two crops each season.
After a late summer to fall harvest, a second crop arrives the following spring on the same canes.

Each cane produces for two years, a late crop from the first year’s new green growth and an early crop the following year from the same cane, now woody.
Even if you cut ever-bearing raspberries to the ground in winter or spring, you will still get one crop of berries in late summer from new growth.
Ever-Bearing Raspberries:
TWO CROP option: For two small crops, one in July and one in September, remove the weakest, thinnest canes with dead flowering or fruiting bracts.
ONE CROP option: For one large late summer crop, remove all canes, and the crop will come entirely from the new summer’s growth and produce berries in September through October.


Another advantage of autumn-fruiting raspberries is that they don't need supporting and you just hack the lot down in February.
Autumn Bliss aren't necessarily the tastiest of raspbs, but I started picking on June 22nd this year and they'll go on until November, weather permitting.

Friday 26 September 2014

Best autumn-fruiting raspberries.

The three best autumn-fruiting raspberries are:
Sugana - an exciting variety that not only crops from August to October but, if you leave the canes unpruned it will fruit again in June the following year. And it tastes great.
Erika - almost too good for jam (I did say almost) and perfect when eaten straight off the bush.
Himbotop - a Swiss variety, so should be pretty good in colder areas. Incidentally, the best raspberries I’ve ever tasted are those grown on the west coast of Scotland. I think the rain makes the fruit plumper.

Thursday 30 May 2013

Raspberries.

Monty Don: Rich pickings | Life and style | The Observer:

'via Blog this'

Double cropping autumn raspberries.

This is not a new technique but it is one that has more merit than previously thought. ‘Gardening Which’ in a recent trial have tested the main cultivars and proved that using the double crop technique can be very productive.

Joan J and Autumn Treasure produced a larger crop overall and produced a much longer cropping period without extra care or depleting the plants’ energy.

The technique involves leaving all the canes uncut over winter - this will produce an early crop in the following summer.

Once these canes have fruited cut them down to the ground.

This will leave all the fresh current season’s green canes still standing to fruit in the Autumn as usual.
My Tiny Plot » Blog Archive » Double Cropping Raspberries:

Monty Don: Grow your own summer pudding.

Monty Don: Grow your own summer pudding | Mail Online:
 "For summer I grow 'Malling Jewel', an old-fashioned variety with large fruits and more modest growth,
and 'Glen Ample', which produces smaller but more abundant fruits.
My autumn raspberries are 'Autumn Bliss'."

'via Blog this'

Friday 18 November 2011

How to extend the raspberry season until October.

We also tried a novel technique known as 'double cropping' on our raspberries. This allows you to harvest raspberries from the same plants from July to October. We were impressed with this new technique and think it’s a great way to get more fruit from the same space and plants. Not all varieties performed as well with double cropping, though. The best in our test were ‘Joan J’ and ‘Autumn Treasure’.

Double Cropping Raspberries

Thursday 29 September 2011

Малина. Простой секрет двойной обрезки.

Первая обрезка производится в конце мая - начале июня. Когда молодой побег вытянется на высоту 70-100 см.
После этого рост вверх практически прекращается, и все жизненные силы устремляются в боковые побеги.
Уже через несколько дней в пазухах верхних листьев появляются первые ростки, а к концу лета вместо одиночного образуются пять, шесть, а то и больше боковых побегов длиной почти в полметра. В таком виде кусты уйдут на зимовку. Только учтите, что ни в коем случае нельзя тянуть со сроками первой обрезки! Если ее провести слишком поздно (в средней полосе надо провести "обрезание" до первой декады июня), то боковые побеги не успеют развиться нормально и померзнут зимой.

Вторая обрезка производится через год, следующей весной, когда на растении распустятся листья.
На этот раз на 5-15 сантиметров обрезаются верхушки перезимовавших боковых побегов.
После этого по всему стволу основного просыпаются спящие почки и образуют новые веточки. К началу плодоношения их будет уже несколько десятков. После такой агротехнической манипуляции даже простые сорта могут приобретать свойства ремонтантных.
Мне приходилось слышать о неплохих результатах, которые дает двойная обрезка, проведенная в течение одного сезона (первая, когда основной побег вырастет всего сантиметров на 20-40, вторая, когда такой же длины достигнут боковые), но за неимением личного опыта не могу ничего рассказать подробнее.

При осенней обрезке необходимо вырезать не только отплодоносившие стебли, но и лишние молодые.
Если малина выращивается кустом, то достаточно 10-12 сильных, здоровых стеблей.
Но это не значит, что можно оставлять любые стебли, которые выросли.
Только сильные, здоровые и растущие недалеко от основания. Слабенькие, коротенькие, недоразвитые, тоненькие, больные удаляйте без сожалений. Весной вы вырежете повреждённые или загущающие стебли так, чтобы общее их число стало 6-8 на куст.
В мае, когда молодые побеги этого года достигнут высоты 5-10 см, осмотрите их и оставьте 10-12 самых сильных. Или удалите все, а из тех, которые вырастут позднее, будете осенью формировать новый куст.

Начиная со второго года, ранние сорта малины обрезают сразу по окончании плодоношения, укорачивая все однолетние побеги таким образом, чтобы над землей осталось 15см. Удаляют также все слабые или больные отпрыски. Оставшиеся побеги подвязывают к шпалерам по мере их отрастания.
Поздние сорта малины плодоносят на ветках текущего года. Их обрезают после весеннего пробуждения, укорачивая все побеги до высоты 15см над землей.
Обычная (не ремонтантная),...плодоносящая на побегах прошлого года.