Showing posts with label Soil. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Soil. Show all posts

Wednesday 31 May 2017

How To Make Potting Soil For Container Gardening.

- How To Make Potting Soil For Container Gardening (with recipe!):
Container Mix Potting Soil Ingredients
Peat moss or coco coir *
This is your base ingredient.
Peat moss and coco coir are both great for water retention, aeration, and adding nutrients to the soil as they decompose.
The only difference is that coco coir is more sustainable than peat moss, and coir a very renewable resource (it’s the bi-product of coconut processing), and peat moss is more acidic than coir.
Buy peat moss here, or coir here.
Compost or well composted manure
Container garden plants (especially vegetables, fruits and herbs) need tons of nutrients to get them through the growing season, and compost is an easy and natural way to add tons of nutrients to the soil. You can buy compost here.
Perlite
Like I mentioned above, potting soil for container gardening needs to be light and porous. Perlite is a natural ingredient that prevents soil compaction, and is a key ingredient for a well draining potting mix. Buy perlite here.
Vermiculite
Another natural ingredient, vermiculite helps the soil retain moisture longer, and also works to keep the soil light and fluffy. Buy vermiculite here.
* if you prefer, you can use a general purpose potting soil instead of peat moss or coco coir as your base ingredient. Any type of all purpose potting soil will do, but I recommend buying an organic potting mix that doesn’t contain any added chemical fertilizers, and avoiding any type of moisture control potting mix.
'via Blog this'

Thursday 5 September 2013

Tuesday 3 September 2013

6 Tips for Building Soil for Your Raised Garden Beds and Planters.

6 Tips for Building Soil for Your Raised Garden Beds and Planters | Eartheasy Blog:
Bringing in some manure is a great start in preparing your beds for a new year of gardening.
But a truckload sounds like a lot for a 16 x 8 bed. I would think a couple of wheelbarrow loads would suffice. Till the manure in several weeks before planting to let it mellow. (Well aged manure is preferable to fresh manure.)It is likely that your soil has compressed a few inches since last year. If it is not light and fluffy, you should add some peat. We usually add lime at the same time as peat, since peat is acidic. (If you had planted green manure then you may not need to add peat.)
Phosphorus is another essential soil ingredient that needs replenishing each year or two. We use rock phosphate for this. You can also add bonemeal. Wood ash is also good to use if this is available to you.
This time of year we focus on developing the soil.
Allotment.
'via Blog this'

Thursday 27 June 2013

The varieties of tomatoes.

There are two basic types of tomato
The first are called ‘Determinate’ or Bush types.
The second type are called ‘Indeterminate’ commonly called Cordon or Vine tomatoes.
Cooking
Jersey Devil*
Romany Striped

'Normal'
(For me that's (1) not large (2) Not too dark (black/purple) in color. I do not grow Supermarket type tomatoes i.e. red golf ball size)

Tomatoes blight.

Try growing cultivars such
as 'Ferline', 'Legend' and 'Fantasio', which have some blight resistance.
All that said, there is hope for outdoor growers. A wilder Mexican tomato called Matt's Wild Cherry shows signs of resistance; another is Koralik, a sprawling bush tomato (the type where you don't have to pinch out side shoots) closely related to Matt's. Both have tiny cherry tomatoes.

Ferline and Legend are F1 cordons (the type where you do pinch out the side shoots) that were bred in Oregon, where blight is a common problem. They are not immune to blight, but are very early fruiting, so you get a tomato salad or two before your chutney-making begins.

Poor air circulation compounds the problem, so if your plants are in pots, give them plenty of space; in the ground, aim for 1-1.5m apart. There is some anecdotal evidence that a solution of 50/50 milk and water sprayed weekly helps to keep the spores at bay. And feed pot plants weekly with comfrey or liquid seaweed, to keep the plants' strength up.

Wednesday 26 June 2013

Tomatoes.

Seeds - Simpson’s, Plants of Distinction, Tamar, Plant World Seeds gardens.
- Unfortunately with some of the best tomatoes you cannot buy organic seed so only from the second year of my own growing can they be considered truly organic.
- end of February or the start of March is about right for sowing.
The seed trays are put in a propagator and the plants are pricked out into 9cm terracotta pots when the third leaf appears.
Feeding starts intermittently then, (see web site for Liquid feeds) until the end of May when they are planted out into 30 cm (12 inches) terracotta pots in the main polytunnel.
From here on in they get my standard feed every day.
- The reason I only fill the pots half full with compost is I want to ‘stress’ the plant. Plants that are stressed often produce their best fruit in a last ditch effort of life. This stressing is not easy and requires a little practice as it can be a fine balance between success and failure and it is very easy to end up with small yellow tomato plants. The feed has to be constant and of a good quality so that the plant actually flourishes rather than dies. Stressing is a bit of a knack but CAN produce great fruit.
- I remove the bottom leaves only to get them out of the way so as not to splash water on them when watering. Tomato blight needs wet leaves to enter the plant and so by not wetting any of the leaves you have a very good chance of not getting blight later on. You needn’t do this if you are really careful with watering.
- After final repotting and once the compost has settled down I cover it with some fine OLD wood chips.
That’s about it for the preparation. Now it is just keeping up the watering and feeding.

Apart from my home made potting compost I only use the three feeds mentioned on the web site under Liquid Feeds.
Once I start watering I add ONE of these liquid feeds every day.
- To start with I use the nettle juice daily. This carries on until the end of June.
- July will be mostly comfrey but towards the end I will progress to Wood Ash.
In all the plants are fed like this every day for 3 months.

Watering
- On a hot day in June or July a 2 gallon watering can is sufficient for 8 plants watered around mid day.
- If the weather is exceptional I will go round again in the late afternoon (as the water will be hot again by then) with plain hot water at perhaps a 2 gallon watering can will do 12 to 16 plants.
- On overcast days if it’s raining I may just give them a splash at midday.
If my terracotta pots start turning green (even the tiniest amount) then I’m over watering, if the top of the compost is dry then I’m under watering.
do not put any of the plants on the compost heap, I throw the plants away..
Author - Richard Sandford- Lower Lovetts Farm.
" Kumato seeds are not available commercially, and the company that produces Kumato, Syngenta, has said they will never make the seeds available to the public.
As you can imagine, this announcement generated a large amount of interest in the Kumato and its possible lineage. While most likely a hybrid, some have speculated that it is an OP variety. In case you have not heard of Kumato, it is a "black" tomato introduced last year available only in Europe and Australia that is supposed to have a good shelf life. From its incredible sales last year in Sainsbury's grocery stores (the only stores to sell the Kumato), it was a very popular introduction. "

Thursday 12 April 2012

For lazy gardener.

Ethelind Fearon's The Reluctant Gardener.
The Reluctant Gardener, the short and easy ways to good husbandry, you can play with vegetables to save yourself work and avoid growing more than you need.
Gardening, like entertaining and cooking should be done with whimsy and joy.
Use of mulches and irrigation channels to conserve water (and effort), home-made liquid manures and she comes close to no-dig gardening.
You would be surprised how much of the grim toil undergone by the allotment holder is unnecessary.
a. That half the things you sweat over are better bought than grown.
b. The ones that are better grown can be grown much more easily than you thought.
and c. Quite a lot of them will serve two purposes, thereby cutting out one operation, one ache, one moan.

1. Don't toss the compost out the kitchen door!
2. Better to grow Welsh onions which have authentic onion flavour but are no hassle as they will grow anywhere and right through winter. Self-generating, when the clump gets too big you can split them which is why they are known as 'everlasting' onions.
3.Growing potatoes- a shortcut method.
- Dig a little so the delicate roots of the potato can 'run about'.
Cut out a trench, keeping the soil on one side and place the your seed potatoes on the floor of it.
Fill the trench with compost, and when the potatoes grow through, earth them up with the soil you dug out from the trench.
By growing them in 'soft luscious compost' you will get nothing but 100% perfect potatoes, and none 'baffled and battered' as they try to push through inhospitable soil.
4. Calabrese and turnips produce roots in summer and 'greens' in winter (though not from the same plant). There are ornamental kales, good to eat but which can be used for flower borders or arranging as 'widely used by our most famous decorators.
5. French beans are a case in point as they can be eaten as green beans (haricots verts), as flageolets (when they are eaten like fresh peas) and as dried haricots for winter.
6. Not a chemical control, but my Father used to have a lot of trouble with carrot root fly until he started using old coffee grounds a couple of years ago. He collects the spent grounds from the coffee shop in his local Sainsburys when he's shopping - just leaves them a clean bucket when he goes in and collects it, full of grounds, on his way out. Then liberally spreads the grounds round the carrot plants, it seems to work very well - now that I've got myself an allotment I'll be trying it too.

My neighbour gets a paintbrush and splashes (sprints?)* paraffin along the rows when he thins them out.
From!

Wednesday 14 September 2011

Что любят и не любят томаты.

- Никогда не высаживайте растения томатов в тени.
- Никогда не загущайте растения томатов.
Лучше всего высаживать их в один ряд на расстоянии 45 см на грядке шириной 90-100 см.
Если же вы хотите высаживать рассаду в два ряда, то ширина грядок должна быть не менее 120 см, оставляя между растениями не менее 50 см.
- Никогда не заливайте водой почву по всей площади грядок.
В противном случае корневая система без поступления к ней кислорода из воздуха будет задыхаться, что отрицательно сказывается на обеспечении надземной части растений питательными веществами.
Лучше делать недалеко от стеблей (на длину корней растений) бороздки глубиной 10 см, в которые при необходимости вносите растворенные питательные вещества и влагу.
- совет по количеству органических и минеральных удобрений:
положить 1-2 стакана перегноя, т.е. навоза, срок которому не менее 5-ти лет, 1 ст. ложку суперфосфата и полстакана золы.

Wednesday 20 April 2011

Sandy soils. Grow suitable crops.

Good vegetable crops for sandy soils will include all of
- the carrots,
- beetroot,
- radishes,
- parsnips,
- garlic and
- the early salad crops of lettuce and the like.

Potatoes early crops are ok, but maincrop potatoes will need added bulky manures to keep the soil moisture levels high for good production.

Brassicas generally, runner beans (Early French Beans are ok) Celery, and Rhubarb are best not grown on sandy vegetable plot soils. They all need too much regular moisture for suitable growth.