Sunday 27 July 2014
Saturday 26 July 2014
Клубника.
Посадка садовой земляники на Supersadovnik.ru:
Соблюдаем севооборот
Кустики земляники быстро стареют и теря ют урожайность, поэтому не рекомендуется держать их на одном месте дольше 4–5 лет. Идеальный вариант – каждый год высаживать новую грядку, а через пять лет удалять ее. Таким образом в вашем саду появится пять разновозрастных делянок:
1 год – новосадка;
2 года – земляника первого года плодоношения (с небольшим урожаем);
3 года – продуктивная делянка;
4 года – вторая продуктивная делянка;
5 лет – стареющая делянка, которую после сбора урожая раскорчевывают и готовят под овощи.
Прежде всего нужно подготовить почву.
Просто разрыхлить землю будет недостаточно.
Хорошо вскопайте ее – на глубину штыка лопаты. В
несите органические удобрения (3–4 ведра компоста, перегноя на квадратный метр) и снова перекопайте.
Слаборослые сорта высаживают на расстоянии 15-20 см, сильнорослые - 25-30 см. Земляничные растения лучше развиваются, если их корни хорошо прогреваются.
Лучше всего выращивать садовую землянику на грядках, где до этого росли
лук,
морковь,
петрушка,
редис,
салаты,
сельдерей,
свекла,
укроп,
чеснок.
Если высадить землянику после баклажанов, картофеля, перца, капусты или огурцов, существует опасность увядания и появления вирусных болезней.
Выращивание клубники: пять советов как получить хороший урожай на Supersadovnik.ru: "высаживать новую грядку"
Соблюдаем севооборот
Кустики земляники быстро стареют и теря ют урожайность, поэтому не рекомендуется держать их на одном месте дольше 4–5 лет. Идеальный вариант – каждый год высаживать новую грядку, а через пять лет удалять ее. Таким образом в вашем саду появится пять разновозрастных делянок:
1 год – новосадка;
2 года – земляника первого года плодоношения (с небольшим урожаем);
3 года – продуктивная делянка;
4 года – вторая продуктивная делянка;
5 лет – стареющая делянка, которую после сбора урожая раскорчевывают и готовят под овощи.
Прежде всего нужно подготовить почву.
Просто разрыхлить землю будет недостаточно.
Хорошо вскопайте ее – на глубину штыка лопаты. В
несите органические удобрения (3–4 ведра компоста, перегноя на квадратный метр) и снова перекопайте.
Слаборослые сорта высаживают на расстоянии 15-20 см, сильнорослые - 25-30 см. Земляничные растения лучше развиваются, если их корни хорошо прогреваются.
Лучше всего выращивать садовую землянику на грядках, где до этого росли
лук,
морковь,
петрушка,
редис,
салаты,
сельдерей,
свекла,
укроп,
чеснок.
Если высадить землянику после баклажанов, картофеля, перца, капусты или огурцов, существует опасность увядания и появления вирусных болезней.
Выращивание клубники: пять советов как получить хороший урожай на Supersadovnik.ru: "высаживать новую грядку"
Belgian Endive (Witloof).
Allotment-Web.org: Fruit, Vegetable and Herb Growing Help For Everyone:
Chicory (Cichorium intybus)
There are 3 different types of chicory, Witloof or Belgian chicory, Red chicory and sugarloaf chicory.
A type of chicory that is grown for its roots, which are dug in the fall and stored for winter forcing.
The process of forcing involves replanting the roots and growing them indoors in complete darkness.
The end result are beautiful chicons which are a European delicacy.
Belgian endive is a great off-season leafy vegetable to be enjoyed during the winter months.
-----------
Выращиваем цикорный салат витлуф на Supersadovnik.ru:
Посадка и выгонка
Для выгонки понадобятся:
светонепроницаемый контейнер-растильня высотой 40–50 см; лучше использовать деревянный ящик, но в домашних условиях будет нужна водонепроницаемая емкость, например контейнер или ведро из темного пластика;
трубка (например, отрезок поливочного шланга) длиной 30–35 см;
торф или песок для заполнения емкости;
светонепроницаемая крышка или черный нетканый укрывной материал.
На дно емкости насыпьте торф или песок, поставьте ее наклонно и уложите корнеплоды слоями, вплотную друг к другу, заполняя щели и пустоты тем же субстратом. Верхушки корнеплодов нужно установить на одном уровне – для этого концы слишком длинных корней можно подрезать.
Дойдя до середины, разместите в центре растильни трубку. Один конец трубки должен почти доходить до верхнего края емкости, другой – отстоять от дна на 5–7 см.
Заполните растильню корнеплодами, полейте через трубку (полив нужно прекратить, когда вода перестанет быстро "сходить" по трубке вниз). накройте крышкой или нетканым материалом и поставьте в прохладное место (+1°С). Выгонка должна происходить в темноте – тогда кочаны останутся белыми. Если на растения будет попадать свет, они позеленеют и станут горькими.
Через 7–10 дней можно переместить растильню в более теплое место (14–18°С). При температуре выше +18°С выгонка ускоряется, но кочаны получаются рыхлыми и быстро израстаются. Поливают по необходимости.
Обычно для выгонки требуется 15 дней. Готовые кочаны срезают с верхушкой корня, чтобы они не рассыпались.
Chicory (Cichorium intybus)
There are 3 different types of chicory, Witloof or Belgian chicory, Red chicory and sugarloaf chicory.
A type of chicory that is grown for its roots, which are dug in the fall and stored for winter forcing.
The process of forcing involves replanting the roots and growing them indoors in complete darkness.
The end result are beautiful chicons which are a European delicacy.
Belgian endive is a great off-season leafy vegetable to be enjoyed during the winter months.
-----------
Выращиваем цикорный салат витлуф на Supersadovnik.ru:
Посадка и выгонка
Для выгонки понадобятся:
светонепроницаемый контейнер-растильня высотой 40–50 см; лучше использовать деревянный ящик, но в домашних условиях будет нужна водонепроницаемая емкость, например контейнер или ведро из темного пластика;
трубка (например, отрезок поливочного шланга) длиной 30–35 см;
торф или песок для заполнения емкости;
светонепроницаемая крышка или черный нетканый укрывной материал.
На дно емкости насыпьте торф или песок, поставьте ее наклонно и уложите корнеплоды слоями, вплотную друг к другу, заполняя щели и пустоты тем же субстратом. Верхушки корнеплодов нужно установить на одном уровне – для этого концы слишком длинных корней можно подрезать.
Дойдя до середины, разместите в центре растильни трубку. Один конец трубки должен почти доходить до верхнего края емкости, другой – отстоять от дна на 5–7 см.
Заполните растильню корнеплодами, полейте через трубку (полив нужно прекратить, когда вода перестанет быстро "сходить" по трубке вниз). накройте крышкой или нетканым материалом и поставьте в прохладное место (+1°С). Выгонка должна происходить в темноте – тогда кочаны останутся белыми. Если на растения будет попадать свет, они позеленеют и станут горькими.
Через 7–10 дней можно переместить растильню в более теплое место (14–18°С). При температуре выше +18°С выгонка ускоряется, но кочаны получаются рыхлыми и быстро израстаются. Поливают по необходимости.
Обычно для выгонки требуется 15 дней. Готовые кочаны срезают с верхушкой корня, чтобы они не рассыпались.
Friday 25 July 2014
Pelargoniums are heaven scent.
Gardening: Pelargoniums are heaven scent - Telegraph:
" I would never want to be without
'Attar of Roses',
'Lady Plymouth',
Pelargonium crispum or
'Prince of Orange'.
'Big Apple' has smooth, round leaves, apple-scented when bruised, and small white flowers. 'Attar of Roses' has heart-shaped grey-green rose-scented leaves and pinky mauve flowers. 'Prince of Orange', with orange-scented, glossy foliage has particularly large and showy flowers, consisting of pale pink petals, veined with purple. 'Creamy Nutmeg' is so-called because of its cream and green variegated leaves and nutmeg scent. 'Lady Plymouth' has deeply cut variegated foliage and small mauve flowers, while 'Islington Peppermint' has attractive flowers with deep red upper petals and white lower ones. 'Ardwick Cinnamon' has masses of small white flowers above silver-grey leaves. All have an airy charm not always displayed by the beefier Zonals.
Growing Tips
Scented-leaved pelargoniums are easy to grow, provided they have very good light and air circulation, and are not exposed to any degree of frost.
If you want them to flower all year, make sure that the winter night temperature is 7C or above.
They can be planted out in containers or herb gardens in the summer, and brought back inside in the autumn. At Cramden Nursery, the pelargoniums are cut right back in late summer or early autumn, so that they carry less leaf through the winter; this reduces both the risk of botrytis and the amount of watering required.
Scented-leaved pelargoniums can get rather leggy unless cut back from time to time. You should also consider re-potting the plants each year in the spring, preferably into John Innes No 2 potting compost.
Emily Mitchell propagates her pelargoniums by cuttings taken from January until late May, in batches. That suits a commercial concern, but the private gardener will probably find it most convenient to make cuttings in summer, particularly if no heated propagator is available.
All in all, it is hard to imagine a group of plants that give as much pleasure for so little trouble."
scented leaf pelargonium scented geraniums plants by post mail order:
'via Blog this'
" I would never want to be without
'Attar of Roses',
'Lady Plymouth',
Pelargonium crispum or
'Prince of Orange'.
'Big Apple' has smooth, round leaves, apple-scented when bruised, and small white flowers. 'Attar of Roses' has heart-shaped grey-green rose-scented leaves and pinky mauve flowers. 'Prince of Orange', with orange-scented, glossy foliage has particularly large and showy flowers, consisting of pale pink petals, veined with purple. 'Creamy Nutmeg' is so-called because of its cream and green variegated leaves and nutmeg scent. 'Lady Plymouth' has deeply cut variegated foliage and small mauve flowers, while 'Islington Peppermint' has attractive flowers with deep red upper petals and white lower ones. 'Ardwick Cinnamon' has masses of small white flowers above silver-grey leaves. All have an airy charm not always displayed by the beefier Zonals.
Growing Tips
Scented-leaved pelargoniums are easy to grow, provided they have very good light and air circulation, and are not exposed to any degree of frost.
If you want them to flower all year, make sure that the winter night temperature is 7C or above.
They can be planted out in containers or herb gardens in the summer, and brought back inside in the autumn. At Cramden Nursery, the pelargoniums are cut right back in late summer or early autumn, so that they carry less leaf through the winter; this reduces both the risk of botrytis and the amount of watering required.
Scented-leaved pelargoniums can get rather leggy unless cut back from time to time. You should also consider re-potting the plants each year in the spring, preferably into John Innes No 2 potting compost.
Emily Mitchell propagates her pelargoniums by cuttings taken from January until late May, in batches. That suits a commercial concern, but the private gardener will probably find it most convenient to make cuttings in summer, particularly if no heated propagator is available.
All in all, it is hard to imagine a group of plants that give as much pleasure for so little trouble."
scented leaf pelargonium scented geraniums plants by post mail order:
'via Blog this'
Sunday 20 July 2014
Wednesday 2 July 2014
Friday 27 June 2014
Monday 23 June 2014
Friday 13 June 2014
How to plant a low-maintenance allotment.
How to plant a low-maintenance allotment | Life and style | theguardian.com:
When it comes to choosing low-maintenance crops, opt for
winter squashes,
drying beans,
chillies,
maincrop potatoes,
rhubarb,
globe and Jerusalem artichokes,
beetroot,
carrots,
kale,
onions,
garlic,
shallots,
perpetual spinach and
chard.
All these crops, once planted, require a quick weed and water now and then, and no mollycoddling. If you don't religiously water any of the above, chances are that, when you do eventually visit the plot, there will be something for you to harvest, and it will be of good edible quality (OK, so yields might not be huge, but what did you expect?).
Peas,
sweetcorn,
radishes,
broad, French and runner beans,
courgettes and calabrese
- are also low-maintenance but their harvest window is brief, so you've got to visit the plot every few days to pick your moment.
Parsley, mint, oregano, thyme and chives are good candidates too (fennel also self-seeds everywhere on our site, so we're never without it).
Sinking bottles by the roots of large plants such as squashes and corn will make things even quicker – just fill up the bottle and walk away. The moisture will slowly soak into the rootzone, right where it's needed.
Low-maintenance pest- and disease-control is not going to happen – gardeners need to regularly check over plants and nip any problems in the bud. All you can do is grow crops that show resistance to diseases that are known to be prevalent on your plot, such as tomato/potato blight and clubroot, and follow the "prevention is better than cure" rule as closely as we can. Net all brassicas against pigeons and cabbage white caterpillars. Erect a wire perimeter fence if rabbits are a nuisance. If anyone knows of a low-maintenance slug and snail option, let me know – at the moment organic pellets are my best suggestion. I grow salads and other edible leaves in my back garden where I can give this pest more attention.
Use water copiously on newly-sown seed beds. In the case of planting out, you disturb the root ball and these disturbed roots need plenty of water to re-establish their roots firmly in the ground and remove air pockets. So again, don't spare the water after planting out new plants and continue the watering until the plant has fully established its foothold.
On established vegetables the most important to time to water them is at the cropping time. Potatoes need plenty of water when the flowers are formed and they are in the tuber forming mode. So do not spare the water and drench them once a week to allow those potatoes to grow and form. Beans and peas are thirsty plants when they are forming pods. This is their offspring and at this stage a once-a-week soaking will give a successful crop.
I never water root crops. They have long tap roots and the purpose of these is to seek out water and nutrients deep in the depths of the soil. This gives better roots for harvest and watering them only keeps a myriad of tiny roots at the soil's surface.
Leafy crops such as cabbage and lettuce do need a drink regularly or, if they go dry, they will ‘bolt’ and send up seed heads as stress tells them to protect the species and form seeds.
So in the vegetable patch carefully plan the watering regime, I prefer to get up early in the morning to give them a drink to start their day before the sun evaporates all that moisture into the atmosphere.
'via Blog this'
When it comes to choosing low-maintenance crops, opt for
winter squashes,
drying beans,
chillies,
maincrop potatoes,
rhubarb,
globe and Jerusalem artichokes,
beetroot,
carrots,
kale,
onions,
garlic,
shallots,
perpetual spinach and
chard.
All these crops, once planted, require a quick weed and water now and then, and no mollycoddling. If you don't religiously water any of the above, chances are that, when you do eventually visit the plot, there will be something for you to harvest, and it will be of good edible quality (OK, so yields might not be huge, but what did you expect?).
Peas,
sweetcorn,
radishes,
broad, French and runner beans,
courgettes and calabrese
- are also low-maintenance but their harvest window is brief, so you've got to visit the plot every few days to pick your moment.
Parsley, mint, oregano, thyme and chives are good candidates too (fennel also self-seeds everywhere on our site, so we're never without it).
Sinking bottles by the roots of large plants such as squashes and corn will make things even quicker – just fill up the bottle and walk away. The moisture will slowly soak into the rootzone, right where it's needed.
Low-maintenance pest- and disease-control is not going to happen – gardeners need to regularly check over plants and nip any problems in the bud. All you can do is grow crops that show resistance to diseases that are known to be prevalent on your plot, such as tomato/potato blight and clubroot, and follow the "prevention is better than cure" rule as closely as we can. Net all brassicas against pigeons and cabbage white caterpillars. Erect a wire perimeter fence if rabbits are a nuisance. If anyone knows of a low-maintenance slug and snail option, let me know – at the moment organic pellets are my best suggestion. I grow salads and other edible leaves in my back garden where I can give this pest more attention.
Use water copiously on newly-sown seed beds. In the case of planting out, you disturb the root ball and these disturbed roots need plenty of water to re-establish their roots firmly in the ground and remove air pockets. So again, don't spare the water after planting out new plants and continue the watering until the plant has fully established its foothold.
On established vegetables the most important to time to water them is at the cropping time. Potatoes need plenty of water when the flowers are formed and they are in the tuber forming mode. So do not spare the water and drench them once a week to allow those potatoes to grow and form. Beans and peas are thirsty plants when they are forming pods. This is their offspring and at this stage a once-a-week soaking will give a successful crop.
I never water root crops. They have long tap roots and the purpose of these is to seek out water and nutrients deep in the depths of the soil. This gives better roots for harvest and watering them only keeps a myriad of tiny roots at the soil's surface.
Leafy crops such as cabbage and lettuce do need a drink regularly or, if they go dry, they will ‘bolt’ and send up seed heads as stress tells them to protect the species and form seeds.
So in the vegetable patch carefully plan the watering regime, I prefer to get up early in the morning to give them a drink to start their day before the sun evaporates all that moisture into the atmosphere.
'via Blog this'
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