Tuesday 27 December 2016
Lovage.
Lovage: A big plant with an even bigger flavor:
"Lovage is not one of the Mediterranean herbs, happiest in dry, lean earth.
It loves the rich, organic, moisture-retentive soil of my garden.
About now, the leaves are starting to yellow as the plant puts all its effort into making seeds.
Gardeners who treasured the leaves above all would have cut it back at this point to encourage ones to grow.
But by doing so they'd miss the chance to harvest the seeds.
These, too, have a celery taste and aroma, and since lovage leaves do not dry very well, the seeds are an excellent medium for keeping the flavor year-round.
When the tiny fruits start to open, cut bunches of the seed stalks and hang them upside down in a paper bag to collect the seeds.
Dried and ground, they can be tossed into anything as a seasoning, and are a traditional addition to baked goods such as muffins, biscuits, cakes and breads."
Tuesday 13 December 2016
All about my mother.
All about my mother | Life and style | The Guardian
Dominic Murphy talks to three high-profile gardeners and their mums about what they've learned from each other.
And what they've rejected...
Dominic Murphy talks to three high-profile gardeners and their mums about what they've learned from each other.
And what they've rejected...
Monday 5 December 2016
Однолетние цветы, однолетники.
Однолетние цветы, однолетники. Названия, фото | ЗАГОРОДНАЯ ЖИЗНЬ (CountrysideLiving.net):
Для экономии времени и усилий я выращиваю только те однолетние цветы, которые не требуют никаких особых хлопот и цветут долго, некоторые — почти все лето.
Это петуния, анютины глазки, пеларгония, алиссум, вербена, календула, настурция, лобелия, мак, бархатцы (тагетес), нигелла, незабудки, фуксия, васильки.
Для экономии времени и усилий я выращиваю только те однолетние цветы, которые не требуют никаких особых хлопот и цветут долго, некоторые — почти все лето.
Это петуния, анютины глазки, пеларгония, алиссум, вербена, календула, настурция, лобелия, мак, бархатцы (тагетес), нигелла, незабудки, фуксия, васильки.
Friday 2 December 2016
Sunday 20 November 2016
Friday 18 November 2016
Plant in the winter time.
Chard
The best chard I've found for eating quality is red-stemmed 'Fantasy' (Thompson & Morgan) – if anyone's got any experience of how robust this is, I'd love to know as I sowed it in a mild winter. A tunnel cloche of fleece is handy.
Leeks
choose a variety showing strong resistance such as 'Oarsman' (Marshalls).
Leek moth is more widespread these days (it used to be just confined to the south), so if it's known in your neighbourhood, cover plants with fine mesh netting or fleece to thwart it.
Purple-leaved varieties tend to be hardier, such as the French classic 'Bleu de Solaise' (Real Seeds) and the British bred 'Northern Lights' (Dobies).
Kale
A row of black Tuscan kale (such as 'Nero di Toscana', from Real Seeds, who have a mouth-watering selection of kale varieties) is a welcome treat on any plot.
Savoy cabbage
to be sliced, lightly boiled or steamed and dressed with butter and black pepper – casserole fodder like no other.
'Alaska' (Marshalls) is a favourite of mine because it's compact and stands incredibly well through the winter. It's an F1 hybrid and an RHS AGM (Award of Garden Merit) winner, to boot.
Brussels sprouts
Spinach
I left an August sowing of 'Tetona' (Nicky's Nursery) over winter last year on the allotment, alongside 'Reddy' (Kings). Both provided pickings all through winter (uncloched) and well into spring – I'll definitely be doing that again. 'Tetona' is a classic arrow-shaped green spinach; the leaves developed a beautifully meaty thickness and deep colour as the weather cooled, but they remained incredibly tender. The foliage widened and hugged the ground for warmth so needed a good wash. 'Reddy' is a different beast altogether – its leaves became much more spear-like (a little like a dandelion), and the taste wasn't as buttery, but the prolific harvests of melting foliage let me forgive that fact.
Parsnips
There are a few things to watch for: the seed's shelf life is short so buy fresh each year; avoid over-rich soils, as this can give excess leaf at the expense of root; don't sow too early as germination will be poor on cold soils and it also increases the likelihood of canker disease; sow seeds in clumps in the soil, then thin to the strongest seedling.
Don't let all this put you off – just sow little clusters of fresh seeds in May and avoid being heavy-handed with the fertiliser.
There are some great canker-resistant varieties out there: 'Gladiator' (D T Brown) and 'Countess' (Mr Fothergill's) being two.
Jerusalem artichokes
Sprouting broccoli
Most of us are familiar with the purple form of this brassica (affectionately referred to as PSB) and it is one of my favourites. There is also a white form, which is underrated, prolific and delicious (try 'White Sprouting Early' from Kings). Both types make large plants when grown well – at least 1m tall and wide – and they need to be sown in April in order to give you crops worth waiting for. The classic season for this plant is early spring (when growing, for example, 'Purple Sprouting Early' from Thompson & Morgan) and such old types are reliably hardy. Improvements in spear size and expansions of seasons have led to some varieties being less hardy, so a harsh frost would knock things on the head (a bit frustrating when you've waited so long for those precious pickings). I'm an old stick in the mud here and like the ones I grow.
Cauliflowers
Beginner gardeners take note: winter- and spring-cropping caulis are far easier to grow than summer or autumn ones. Pop yourself a few plants in, in June or July, water well to avoid any check in growth, and await impressive curds come the cool season. Wider spacings (80-100cm) will give you larger curds – great for big families. Plant closely (20cm apart each way in a grid) for mini-curds, ideal for one person portions. 'Moby Dick', 'Aalsmeer' and 'Mayflower' (all Mr Fothergill's and all with an RHS AGM) will together give a good harvest over a long period. Try 'Clapton' if clubroot is a problem in your area, because it shows resistance to this troublesome disease.
- Top ten winter vegetables | Life and style | The Guardian:
'via Blog this'
- How To Grow Vegetables & Fruit | Growing Guides & Tips | Grow Your Own Magazine
- 6 crops you can plant in the winter time – Fennel and Fern:
Spring Bulbs
During the winter it may seem your garden has nothing going on, but there are plenty of jobs to do in preparation for the coming weeks and months.
If you go to the Bakker website you will find a wide variety of seeds and bulbs that can be planted during the winter for spring.
Sitting back and deciding how you would like your garden to look the following year can be a great way of relaxing and planting spring bulbs can be one of the most rewarding of all.
Once your flowers start to grow you know it won’t be long until you have colour back in your flower beds.
Onions
Starting a vegetable garden may seem like a daunting task but once you harvest your first crop you’ll appreciate the freshness.
Growing onions is relatively easy, and these bulbs do well deep in the ground over the winter months.
Look out for the Onion Electric variety, if you’re trying to add a stunning red colour to your cooking.
Gorgeous garlic
Garlic responds well to cold temperatures and frost.
This wonderful bulb is popular in stews, omelettes, salads and a whole host of meals, and it is reputed to be good for thinning the blood.
There are two main types of garlic to look out for, according to The Independent gardening blog: soft neck and hard neck.
If you’re thinking of storing your crop, then opt for soft neck.
Garlic doesn’t grow well in damp mild winters.
Potatoes
The potato is one of the easier root vegetables to grow and is resistant to frost if planted at the right depth.
The best time to plant them is February and they are usually grown from pieces of tuber that has at least one eye, or from small whole tubers, they will be ready to harvest three months after planting.
Lettuce
This plant needs to be well watered and planted in fertile soil; the seeds should be planted in January or February, but check which type of seeds you buy, as some plants prefer warmer months.
There are dozens of varieties available so you should find the right ones to suit your needs.
Peas
The best time to plant the humble pea is between November and February and the seeds should be planted approximately two inches deep in rich soil.
You should build a frame for them to climb up once they start to grow.
They will wind their tendrils around netting or poles as they develop, but you should be aware that birds love the fresh pea sprouts so try and cover them with some netting.
'via Blog this'
The best chard I've found for eating quality is red-stemmed 'Fantasy' (Thompson & Morgan) – if anyone's got any experience of how robust this is, I'd love to know as I sowed it in a mild winter. A tunnel cloche of fleece is handy.
Leeks
choose a variety showing strong resistance such as 'Oarsman' (Marshalls).
Leek moth is more widespread these days (it used to be just confined to the south), so if it's known in your neighbourhood, cover plants with fine mesh netting or fleece to thwart it.
Purple-leaved varieties tend to be hardier, such as the French classic 'Bleu de Solaise' (Real Seeds) and the British bred 'Northern Lights' (Dobies).
Kale
A row of black Tuscan kale (such as 'Nero di Toscana', from Real Seeds, who have a mouth-watering selection of kale varieties) is a welcome treat on any plot.
Savoy cabbage
to be sliced, lightly boiled or steamed and dressed with butter and black pepper – casserole fodder like no other.
'Alaska' (Marshalls) is a favourite of mine because it's compact and stands incredibly well through the winter. It's an F1 hybrid and an RHS AGM (Award of Garden Merit) winner, to boot.
Brussels sprouts
Spinach
I left an August sowing of 'Tetona' (Nicky's Nursery) over winter last year on the allotment, alongside 'Reddy' (Kings). Both provided pickings all through winter (uncloched) and well into spring – I'll definitely be doing that again. 'Tetona' is a classic arrow-shaped green spinach; the leaves developed a beautifully meaty thickness and deep colour as the weather cooled, but they remained incredibly tender. The foliage widened and hugged the ground for warmth so needed a good wash. 'Reddy' is a different beast altogether – its leaves became much more spear-like (a little like a dandelion), and the taste wasn't as buttery, but the prolific harvests of melting foliage let me forgive that fact.
Parsnips
There are a few things to watch for: the seed's shelf life is short so buy fresh each year; avoid over-rich soils, as this can give excess leaf at the expense of root; don't sow too early as germination will be poor on cold soils and it also increases the likelihood of canker disease; sow seeds in clumps in the soil, then thin to the strongest seedling.
Don't let all this put you off – just sow little clusters of fresh seeds in May and avoid being heavy-handed with the fertiliser.
There are some great canker-resistant varieties out there: 'Gladiator' (D T Brown) and 'Countess' (Mr Fothergill's) being two.
Jerusalem artichokes
Sprouting broccoli
Most of us are familiar with the purple form of this brassica (affectionately referred to as PSB) and it is one of my favourites. There is also a white form, which is underrated, prolific and delicious (try 'White Sprouting Early' from Kings). Both types make large plants when grown well – at least 1m tall and wide – and they need to be sown in April in order to give you crops worth waiting for. The classic season for this plant is early spring (when growing, for example, 'Purple Sprouting Early' from Thompson & Morgan) and such old types are reliably hardy. Improvements in spear size and expansions of seasons have led to some varieties being less hardy, so a harsh frost would knock things on the head (a bit frustrating when you've waited so long for those precious pickings). I'm an old stick in the mud here and like the ones I grow.
Cauliflowers
Beginner gardeners take note: winter- and spring-cropping caulis are far easier to grow than summer or autumn ones. Pop yourself a few plants in, in June or July, water well to avoid any check in growth, and await impressive curds come the cool season. Wider spacings (80-100cm) will give you larger curds – great for big families. Plant closely (20cm apart each way in a grid) for mini-curds, ideal for one person portions. 'Moby Dick', 'Aalsmeer' and 'Mayflower' (all Mr Fothergill's and all with an RHS AGM) will together give a good harvest over a long period. Try 'Clapton' if clubroot is a problem in your area, because it shows resistance to this troublesome disease.
- Top ten winter vegetables | Life and style | The Guardian:
'via Blog this'
- How To Grow Vegetables & Fruit | Growing Guides & Tips | Grow Your Own Magazine
- 6 crops you can plant in the winter time – Fennel and Fern:
Spring Bulbs
During the winter it may seem your garden has nothing going on, but there are plenty of jobs to do in preparation for the coming weeks and months.
If you go to the Bakker website you will find a wide variety of seeds and bulbs that can be planted during the winter for spring.
Sitting back and deciding how you would like your garden to look the following year can be a great way of relaxing and planting spring bulbs can be one of the most rewarding of all.
Once your flowers start to grow you know it won’t be long until you have colour back in your flower beds.
Onions
Starting a vegetable garden may seem like a daunting task but once you harvest your first crop you’ll appreciate the freshness.
Growing onions is relatively easy, and these bulbs do well deep in the ground over the winter months.
Look out for the Onion Electric variety, if you’re trying to add a stunning red colour to your cooking.
Gorgeous garlic
Garlic responds well to cold temperatures and frost.
This wonderful bulb is popular in stews, omelettes, salads and a whole host of meals, and it is reputed to be good for thinning the blood.
There are two main types of garlic to look out for, according to The Independent gardening blog: soft neck and hard neck.
If you’re thinking of storing your crop, then opt for soft neck.
Garlic doesn’t grow well in damp mild winters.
Potatoes
The potato is one of the easier root vegetables to grow and is resistant to frost if planted at the right depth.
The best time to plant them is February and they are usually grown from pieces of tuber that has at least one eye, or from small whole tubers, they will be ready to harvest three months after planting.
Lettuce
This plant needs to be well watered and planted in fertile soil; the seeds should be planted in January or February, but check which type of seeds you buy, as some plants prefer warmer months.
There are dozens of varieties available so you should find the right ones to suit your needs.
Peas
The best time to plant the humble pea is between November and February and the seeds should be planted approximately two inches deep in rich soil.
You should build a frame for them to climb up once they start to grow.
They will wind their tendrils around netting or poles as they develop, but you should be aware that birds love the fresh pea sprouts so try and cover them with some netting.
'via Blog this'
Friday 11 November 2016
Herbs!
Monty Don: Herbs are the easiest and best thing to grow in your garden, partly because a small amount can improve a whole range of other ingredients
Herbs are the easiest and best thing to grow in your garden, partly because a small amount can improve a whole range of other ingredients
Mediterranean herbs
This group includes culinary herbs such as rosemary, thyme, sage, coriander, tarragon, bay and oregano.
Decorative and medicinal herbs such as lavender, santolina, artemisia and hyssop share the same growing conditions.
You must be cruel to be kind to these plants.
Always add drainage to your soil and never, ever add compost or manure.
If you grow them in pots, mix ordinary peat-free potting compost with the same volume of sharp sand or grit.
Do not feed these plants as the harder they are grown the better they will be able to resist problems of weather, pests or disease.
However, do not forget to water them in summer, though they can dry out in winter, and as long as they are not too wet are very hardy.
But the combination of wet and cold is often fatal.
Annual herbs
Like any other annual plant, annual herbs do all their growing, flowering — and critically — seed production within one growing season.
Many promptly die, although some can live on for a few more years.
But the gardener can harness this speed of production through managing seeds.
Sow them in spring and you will have a crop.
But sow some every few months and you will have a daily supply.
My favourite annual herbs are basil and coriander.
Basil (Ocimum basilicum) is tender so needs protection from frost, but the others are very robust.
Basil is a very strong-growing plant that needs plenty of space to develop properly and which can be picked all summer long to provide fresh leaves.
I grow mine alongside tomatoes in the greenhouse from May onwards and outside in the garden once the nights get reliably warm in July, allowing at least 15cm (6in) space between each seedling.
Another favourite herb is parsley, which is a biennial, meaning it sets seed in its second year.
Like coriander, it’s a robust plant that will grow in some shade.
I grow both all year round, inside and out, making a sowing every few months.
Perennial herbs
Some herbs are herbaceous perennials that survive the winter by the top growth all dying back in autumn and growing fresh foliage and flowers in spring and summer.
My own favourites from this group are mint, chives, lovage, marjoram, fennel, sorrel and horseradish.
There are many different mints but the three to grow for the kitchen are spearmint (Mentha spicata), peppermint (Mentha x piperita) and apple mint (Mentha suaveolens).
Mint grows in most soils and conditions, though it prefers a rather damp, sunny site.
However, it will spread invasively if given the chance, so I recommend growing it in a container.
Chives are an allium, like garlic, and are very easy to grow from seed and become long-lived perennials that can be chopped into sections with a spade to create new plants, and each will regrow with fresh vigour.
The flowers are beautiful and edible but cut them back to the ground as soon as the blooms start to fade and they will quickly grow new shoots.
This can be repeated every four weeks or so throughout the growing season.
Lovage (Levisticum officinale) has very deep, fleshy roots and does best in fairly moist soil.
The leaves have a subtle and delicious celery flavour that’s excellent in soups and stews.
It grows very large with a giant flower head that should be cut back along with the older leaves at least once in summer to encourage fresh growth.
Sorrel (Rumex acetosa) is another shade and damp-loving herb with a distinct lemony astringency, that’s especially good with egg dishes.
Common sorrel is spinach-like and best cooked, but buckler leaf sorrel (Rumex scutatus) has smaller, less bitter leaves and is better used in salads.
Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) will seed itself freely and bronze fennel is a welcome self-seeder all over my garden.
The seedlings have a deep tap root so must be transplanted when very young if they are to survive the move.
The leaves and seeds of green fennel are delicious with any fish or pork.
Read more: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/home/gardening/article-3505311/Happiness-vegetable-patch-Follow-sun-pick-plot-six-essentials-need-grow-added-ingredient-transform-meals.html#ixzz4PhFr03hs
Herbs are the easiest and best thing to grow in your garden, partly because a small amount can improve a whole range of other ingredients
Mediterranean herbs
This group includes culinary herbs such as rosemary, thyme, sage, coriander, tarragon, bay and oregano.
Decorative and medicinal herbs such as lavender, santolina, artemisia and hyssop share the same growing conditions.
You must be cruel to be kind to these plants.
Always add drainage to your soil and never, ever add compost or manure.
If you grow them in pots, mix ordinary peat-free potting compost with the same volume of sharp sand or grit.
Do not feed these plants as the harder they are grown the better they will be able to resist problems of weather, pests or disease.
However, do not forget to water them in summer, though they can dry out in winter, and as long as they are not too wet are very hardy.
But the combination of wet and cold is often fatal.
Annual herbs
Like any other annual plant, annual herbs do all their growing, flowering — and critically — seed production within one growing season.
Many promptly die, although some can live on for a few more years.
But the gardener can harness this speed of production through managing seeds.
Sow them in spring and you will have a crop.
But sow some every few months and you will have a daily supply.
My favourite annual herbs are basil and coriander.
Basil (Ocimum basilicum) is tender so needs protection from frost, but the others are very robust.
Basil is a very strong-growing plant that needs plenty of space to develop properly and which can be picked all summer long to provide fresh leaves.
I grow mine alongside tomatoes in the greenhouse from May onwards and outside in the garden once the nights get reliably warm in July, allowing at least 15cm (6in) space between each seedling.
Another favourite herb is parsley, which is a biennial, meaning it sets seed in its second year.
Like coriander, it’s a robust plant that will grow in some shade.
I grow both all year round, inside and out, making a sowing every few months.
Perennial herbs
Some herbs are herbaceous perennials that survive the winter by the top growth all dying back in autumn and growing fresh foliage and flowers in spring and summer.
My own favourites from this group are mint, chives, lovage, marjoram, fennel, sorrel and horseradish.
There are many different mints but the three to grow for the kitchen are spearmint (Mentha spicata), peppermint (Mentha x piperita) and apple mint (Mentha suaveolens).
Mint grows in most soils and conditions, though it prefers a rather damp, sunny site.
However, it will spread invasively if given the chance, so I recommend growing it in a container.
Chives are an allium, like garlic, and are very easy to grow from seed and become long-lived perennials that can be chopped into sections with a spade to create new plants, and each will regrow with fresh vigour.
The flowers are beautiful and edible but cut them back to the ground as soon as the blooms start to fade and they will quickly grow new shoots.
This can be repeated every four weeks or so throughout the growing season.
Lovage (Levisticum officinale) has very deep, fleshy roots and does best in fairly moist soil.
The leaves have a subtle and delicious celery flavour that’s excellent in soups and stews.
It grows very large with a giant flower head that should be cut back along with the older leaves at least once in summer to encourage fresh growth.
Sorrel (Rumex acetosa) is another shade and damp-loving herb with a distinct lemony astringency, that’s especially good with egg dishes.
Common sorrel is spinach-like and best cooked, but buckler leaf sorrel (Rumex scutatus) has smaller, less bitter leaves and is better used in salads.
Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) will seed itself freely and bronze fennel is a welcome self-seeder all over my garden.
The seedlings have a deep tap root so must be transplanted when very young if they are to survive the move.
The leaves and seeds of green fennel are delicious with any fish or pork.
Read more: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/home/gardening/article-3505311/Happiness-vegetable-patch-Follow-sun-pick-plot-six-essentials-need-grow-added-ingredient-transform-meals.html#ixzz4PhFr03hs
Six steps that will help you grow your own vegetable patch.
Six steps that will help you grow your own vegetable patch | Daily Mail Online
Anyone, anywhere can do it — no garden is too small.
A window box or pot is ideal for herbs that transform dishes and a patch of ground a metre square will provide salad leaves all year.
I have seen spritely 90-year-olds digging on allotments and three-year-olds helping to plant rows of beans.
- Follow the sun to pick your plot.
Vegetables all grow best in good soil that is free-draining with direct sun for at least half the day - preferably longer.
- Getting warm!
A greenhouse is best, but cold frames are very good and a porch or spare windowsill is perfectly workable.
When they have germinated and are reasonable sized seedlings, put them outside to harden off before planting them out at 22cm (9in) spacing when the soil is warm and they are big enough to withstand any kind of slug or snail attack.
- Mulch to do.
The best soil is rich in humus or organic matter that comes from the roots of plants and the addition of decaying plant material such as compost or manure.
If you can’t dig, a mulch on the surface will do the job and work into the soil, albeit more slowly.
Root crops such as carrots and parsnips grow best in soil that is very free draining and hasn’t had fresh organic material added in the past year. That’s because it can cause roots to fork and split and encourage lush foliage at the expense of the roots.
So it’s a common practice to heavily enrich one third of the plot for potatoes, legumes and salad crops, and to top up another third with a mulch of good compost, which is good for brassicas such as cabbage, cauliflower and broccoli plus alliums such as onions, leeks and garlic.
The third section is left unenriched and used for root crops, such as carrots. This last one becomes the first next year — so is heavily enriched; last year’s first gets a top-up; and the one that was second (brassicas and alliums) is left alone to grow carrots and roots. And so it goes on. In practice, there is usually much more mixing and matching than that and crops are squeezed in among each other. It doesn’t have to be slavishly obeyed, but it is a good guiding principal.
- Easy-reach beds.
Don’t make the beds too wide: 1m (3ft) to 1.5m (5ft) is the maximum workable width, and it is best to keep them to less than 4.5m (15ft) long so they remain quick and easy to walk around.
Mark the beds out with string and dig the ground deeply, adding as much manure or compost as you can obtain. This will raise the surface of the soil. Use bark chippings, paving or grass for the paths.
- Slugs and snails.
The healthiest plants are those that respond best to the situation that they grow in — whatever and wherever it might be. Encourage predators to get rid of pests for you. Thrushes, frogs, toads, beetles, centipedes, shrews and hedgehogs all love eating slugs and snails.
It means avoiding toxic chemicals — ie slug pellets — and a degree of tolerance for collateral damage.
- Sow little & often.
Succession is the key and gives a steady supply of fresh vegetables for as long as possible.
It means sowing two or three batches of your favourite vegetables across the season, so when one batch nears the end, another is ready to be harvested with perhaps a third being sown or grown on.
Start with some fast-growing salad leaves raised indoors in plugs that can be planted out as soon as the ground warms, and follow it with regular additions, raised in plugs and directly sown, until September.
Crops such as peas and beans, chard, carrots and beetroot grow more slowly but can be spread over months to provide two or three overlapping waves of harvest.
Finally there are long, slow crops such as most brassicas, chicory, garlic or celery that will tie up space for most of the growing year.
I always inter-plant these with a fast-growing catch-crop such as radishes or rocket that is ready to eat before it competes with the slow-grower.
Anyone, anywhere can do it — no garden is too small.
A window box or pot is ideal for herbs that transform dishes and a patch of ground a metre square will provide salad leaves all year.
I have seen spritely 90-year-olds digging on allotments and three-year-olds helping to plant rows of beans.
- Follow the sun to pick your plot.
Vegetables all grow best in good soil that is free-draining with direct sun for at least half the day - preferably longer.
- Getting warm!
A greenhouse is best, but cold frames are very good and a porch or spare windowsill is perfectly workable.
When they have germinated and are reasonable sized seedlings, put them outside to harden off before planting them out at 22cm (9in) spacing when the soil is warm and they are big enough to withstand any kind of slug or snail attack.
- Mulch to do.
The best soil is rich in humus or organic matter that comes from the roots of plants and the addition of decaying plant material such as compost or manure.
If you can’t dig, a mulch on the surface will do the job and work into the soil, albeit more slowly.
Root crops such as carrots and parsnips grow best in soil that is very free draining and hasn’t had fresh organic material added in the past year. That’s because it can cause roots to fork and split and encourage lush foliage at the expense of the roots.
So it’s a common practice to heavily enrich one third of the plot for potatoes, legumes and salad crops, and to top up another third with a mulch of good compost, which is good for brassicas such as cabbage, cauliflower and broccoli plus alliums such as onions, leeks and garlic.
The third section is left unenriched and used for root crops, such as carrots. This last one becomes the first next year — so is heavily enriched; last year’s first gets a top-up; and the one that was second (brassicas and alliums) is left alone to grow carrots and roots. And so it goes on. In practice, there is usually much more mixing and matching than that and crops are squeezed in among each other. It doesn’t have to be slavishly obeyed, but it is a good guiding principal.
- Easy-reach beds.
Don’t make the beds too wide: 1m (3ft) to 1.5m (5ft) is the maximum workable width, and it is best to keep them to less than 4.5m (15ft) long so they remain quick and easy to walk around.
Mark the beds out with string and dig the ground deeply, adding as much manure or compost as you can obtain. This will raise the surface of the soil. Use bark chippings, paving or grass for the paths.
- Slugs and snails.
The healthiest plants are those that respond best to the situation that they grow in — whatever and wherever it might be. Encourage predators to get rid of pests for you. Thrushes, frogs, toads, beetles, centipedes, shrews and hedgehogs all love eating slugs and snails.
It means avoiding toxic chemicals — ie slug pellets — and a degree of tolerance for collateral damage.
- Sow little & often.
Succession is the key and gives a steady supply of fresh vegetables for as long as possible.
It means sowing two or three batches of your favourite vegetables across the season, so when one batch nears the end, another is ready to be harvested with perhaps a third being sown or grown on.
Start with some fast-growing salad leaves raised indoors in plugs that can be planted out as soon as the ground warms, and follow it with regular additions, raised in plugs and directly sown, until September.
Crops such as peas and beans, chard, carrots and beetroot grow more slowly but can be spread over months to provide two or three overlapping waves of harvest.
Finally there are long, slow crops such as most brassicas, chicory, garlic or celery that will tie up space for most of the growing year.
I always inter-plant these with a fast-growing catch-crop such as radishes or rocket that is ready to eat before it competes with the slow-grower.
Saturday 5 November 2016
Winter Sowing - A Step By Step Guide
- Winter Sowing - A Step By Step Guide
- Container Gardening For You Site Search Results
- Sowing Seeds in Winter | WTIP North Shore Community Radio, Cook County, Minnesota
- How to Winter Sow Seeds Outdoors
- Winter sowing vs. cold frames
- Winter Sowing – Germinating the Natural Way - The Permaculture Research Institute
- Подзимние посевы цветов
- Container Gardening For You Site Search Results
- Sowing Seeds in Winter | WTIP North Shore Community Radio, Cook County, Minnesota
- How to Winter Sow Seeds Outdoors
- Winter sowing vs. cold frames
- Winter Sowing – Germinating the Natural Way - The Permaculture Research Institute
- Подзимние посевы цветов
Подзимний сев.
- Подзимние посевы цветов
- Зима – мое время сева - Садовое обозрение
Время и место подзимнего сева я перенесла с поздней осени на начало января.
Почему? Да потому что даже в Подмосковье и в декабре случаются оттепели на фоне бесснежья, а значит, семена трогаются в рост, а затем погибают из-за сильных морозов.
В январе же длинные каникулы, времени много, можно спокойно разобраться с семенами, заполнить контейнеры почвой и посеять.
И после этого поставить контейнеры не на подоконник, а закопать в саду в приличном сугробе.
Останется только пометить место своего «клада», а в марте его раскопать и перенести контейнеры либо в теплицу, либо на балкон.
Таким образом, семена, нуждающиеся в стратификации, быстрее дадут всходы.
Для зимнего сева необходимы плодородный грунт, состоящий из листовой земли, торфа и перегноя.
Еще сенью его нужно просеять, перемешать и полить раствором фитоспорина.
После этого выдержать в тепле не менее месяца, а затем можно вынести на холод.
Контейнеры для сева должны быть не глубокими, с хорошими дренажными отверстиями.
Это могут быть как промышленные цветочные контейнеры, так и изделия из молочных пакетов.
Важно, чтобы максимально плотно они входили в большие пластиковые ящики из-под фруктов, потому что закапывать в сугроб удобнее именно ящик, а не каждый контейнер в отдельности.
Кроме того, понадобятся этикетки.
Рекомендую для этих целей использовать одноразовые пластиковые ножички.
Они дешевы, надежны, на них можно писать специальным маркером, а для прочности еще и покрыть завалявшимся бесцветным лаком для ногтей.
Кроме того, я составляю план посева в своем садовом дневнике.
Почему сеять нужно не в большой ящик, а в отдельные контейнеры?
Да потому что так можно посеять каждый сорт отдельно и никакой путаницы весной не будет.
К тому же у разных растений и сортов разные сроки всходов и разная энергия роста.
Процесс сева таков. Заполнив контейнеры почвой, слегка уплотните ее и полейте.
Дайте верхнему слою слегка подсохнуть, тщательно разровняйте и разложите семена.
Крупные вдавите спичкой на глубину 1 см.
Затем поверх семян насыпьте слой рыхлой просеянной почвы или прокаленного речного песка.
Глубина заделки овощных культур должна быть немного больше, чем рекомендуется конкретному растению, цветочные же культуры лучше не заглублять, а просто семена прижать и слегка присыпать песком.
Через 10-12 часов все контейнеры с этикетками составьте в ящик, прикройте нетканой пленкой, отнесите в сад и закопайте в сугроб с южной стороны дома.
Это важно, потому что уже в конце февраля здесь начнет поддаивать снег и будет легко вытащить ящик.
Учитывая разные сроки вегетации, можно будет сначала перенести в тепло контейнеры с растениями, которым нужно расти дольше, затем остальные.
Я, например, уже в феврале откапываю контейнеры с луком пореем и сельдереем и заношу в дом, а большинство цветочных культур сидят в холоде практически до середины марта.
Что же можно посеять зимой?
Из овощных культур всегда сею порей, шалот и репчатый лук, сорта которого могут дать полноценную луковицу за один сезон, сельдерей корневой и черешковый, свеклу, пастернак.
Для супераннего урожая сею в горшочки мангольд, листовой салат, шпинат, укроп и кинзу, чтобы в марте высадить их в теплицу.
Из цветочных культур пригодны для зимнего сева алиссум, астра и хризантема однолетняя, годеция, календула, мак, космея, лаватера, табак душистый, флокс Друммонда, эшшольция и другие декоративные однолетние культуры, семена которых выдерживают морозы.
Под зиму можно посеять также семена аспарагуса (спаржа), аквилегии, горечавки, гвоздики, декоративных луков, дельфиниума, купальницы, лаванды английской, проломника...
Кстати, только при таком способе можно получить нормальную всхожесть примул.
Увы, при посадке в открытый грунт, как правило, именно ценные сорта теряются или вообще не всходят.
Есть растения, чьи семена очень быстро теряют всхожесть, поэтому зимний посев для них просто необходим.
Только таким способом можно получить саженцы адонисов, аконитов, джефферсонии, хохлаток, печеночниц, пульсатиллы (прострел), морозников, ясенца и триллиумов.
Какие-то цветочные культуры весной можно занести в дом, а какие-то прикопать на разводочной грядке.
А можно поступить, например, и так: один контейнер с алиссумом в марте перенести в теплицу, а другой прикопать в открытый грунт.
Таким образом, у вас будет рассада разных сроков активного цветения, что важно для поддержания декоративности сада весть теплый сезон.
Поделюсь и своим секретом выращивания крепкой рассады.
Сразу после того, как оттает почва в контейнерах, обильно поливаю ее теплой водой с добавлением Экстрасола.
После этого важно, чтобы контейнеры стояли в месте, где температура не ниже 10 градусов тепла.
Живые бактерии начнут стимулировать прорастание семян, рост растений и подавлять болезнетворную микрофлору.
- Зима – мое время сева - Садовое обозрение
Время и место подзимнего сева я перенесла с поздней осени на начало января.
Почему? Да потому что даже в Подмосковье и в декабре случаются оттепели на фоне бесснежья, а значит, семена трогаются в рост, а затем погибают из-за сильных морозов.
В январе же длинные каникулы, времени много, можно спокойно разобраться с семенами, заполнить контейнеры почвой и посеять.
И после этого поставить контейнеры не на подоконник, а закопать в саду в приличном сугробе.
Останется только пометить место своего «клада», а в марте его раскопать и перенести контейнеры либо в теплицу, либо на балкон.
Таким образом, семена, нуждающиеся в стратификации, быстрее дадут всходы.
Для зимнего сева необходимы плодородный грунт, состоящий из листовой земли, торфа и перегноя.
Еще сенью его нужно просеять, перемешать и полить раствором фитоспорина.
После этого выдержать в тепле не менее месяца, а затем можно вынести на холод.
Контейнеры для сева должны быть не глубокими, с хорошими дренажными отверстиями.
Это могут быть как промышленные цветочные контейнеры, так и изделия из молочных пакетов.
Важно, чтобы максимально плотно они входили в большие пластиковые ящики из-под фруктов, потому что закапывать в сугроб удобнее именно ящик, а не каждый контейнер в отдельности.
Кроме того, понадобятся этикетки.
Рекомендую для этих целей использовать одноразовые пластиковые ножички.
Они дешевы, надежны, на них можно писать специальным маркером, а для прочности еще и покрыть завалявшимся бесцветным лаком для ногтей.
Кроме того, я составляю план посева в своем садовом дневнике.
Почему сеять нужно не в большой ящик, а в отдельные контейнеры?
Да потому что так можно посеять каждый сорт отдельно и никакой путаницы весной не будет.
К тому же у разных растений и сортов разные сроки всходов и разная энергия роста.
Процесс сева таков. Заполнив контейнеры почвой, слегка уплотните ее и полейте.
Дайте верхнему слою слегка подсохнуть, тщательно разровняйте и разложите семена.
Крупные вдавите спичкой на глубину 1 см.
Затем поверх семян насыпьте слой рыхлой просеянной почвы или прокаленного речного песка.
Глубина заделки овощных культур должна быть немного больше, чем рекомендуется конкретному растению, цветочные же культуры лучше не заглублять, а просто семена прижать и слегка присыпать песком.
Через 10-12 часов все контейнеры с этикетками составьте в ящик, прикройте нетканой пленкой, отнесите в сад и закопайте в сугроб с южной стороны дома.
Это важно, потому что уже в конце февраля здесь начнет поддаивать снег и будет легко вытащить ящик.
Учитывая разные сроки вегетации, можно будет сначала перенести в тепло контейнеры с растениями, которым нужно расти дольше, затем остальные.
Я, например, уже в феврале откапываю контейнеры с луком пореем и сельдереем и заношу в дом, а большинство цветочных культур сидят в холоде практически до середины марта.
Что же можно посеять зимой?
Из овощных культур всегда сею порей, шалот и репчатый лук, сорта которого могут дать полноценную луковицу за один сезон, сельдерей корневой и черешковый, свеклу, пастернак.
Для супераннего урожая сею в горшочки мангольд, листовой салат, шпинат, укроп и кинзу, чтобы в марте высадить их в теплицу.
Из цветочных культур пригодны для зимнего сева алиссум, астра и хризантема однолетняя, годеция, календула, мак, космея, лаватера, табак душистый, флокс Друммонда, эшшольция и другие декоративные однолетние культуры, семена которых выдерживают морозы.
Под зиму можно посеять также семена аспарагуса (спаржа), аквилегии, горечавки, гвоздики, декоративных луков, дельфиниума, купальницы, лаванды английской, проломника...
Кстати, только при таком способе можно получить нормальную всхожесть примул.
Увы, при посадке в открытый грунт, как правило, именно ценные сорта теряются или вообще не всходят.
Есть растения, чьи семена очень быстро теряют всхожесть, поэтому зимний посев для них просто необходим.
Только таким способом можно получить саженцы адонисов, аконитов, джефферсонии, хохлаток, печеночниц, пульсатиллы (прострел), морозников, ясенца и триллиумов.
Какие-то цветочные культуры весной можно занести в дом, а какие-то прикопать на разводочной грядке.
А можно поступить, например, и так: один контейнер с алиссумом в марте перенести в теплицу, а другой прикопать в открытый грунт.
Таким образом, у вас будет рассада разных сроков активного цветения, что важно для поддержания декоративности сада весть теплый сезон.
Поделюсь и своим секретом выращивания крепкой рассады.
Сразу после того, как оттает почва в контейнерах, обильно поливаю ее теплой водой с добавлением Экстрасола.
После этого важно, чтобы контейнеры стояли в месте, где температура не ниже 10 градусов тепла.
Живые бактерии начнут стимулировать прорастание семян, рост растений и подавлять болезнетворную микрофлору.
Friday 4 November 2016
Cut Flowers.
- Cut Flowers | wellywoman
At first I did grow flowers in raised beds in my back garden, and then when I took on an allotment I decoded to devote two beds on the plot to cut flowers.
Each year I learnt which plants gave me the most flowers, which were easy to grow and which lasted the longest when cut.
Early spring is the best time to start growing cut flowers but there are still plans and projects to be getting on with.
It is sowing biennials in summer or hardy annuals in autumn it is choosing the right plants.
Planning a cutting patch:
- sweet pea
- dahlia
- corn flowers
- love-in-the-mist
They are disappointingly short lived.
But...
Most cut flowers prefer neuteral soil PH7.
Shopping list:
1 dahlia karma choc
2 ammi visnaga
4 Sweet William (dianthus barbarous)
12 Sweet pea (Lathers ordoratus)
30 Narcissus Tate a Tate
2 Scabiosa atropurpurea 'Black Cat'
2 Cosmos bipinnatus 'Candy Stripe”
2 Daucus carota 'Black Knight'
6 biennial stock matthiola flower
Dahlia karma choc
Ammi visnaga.
- Ammi visnaga: 500 seeds - £1.95.
Sarah Raven: Seed-only orders have P&P charged at £2.50.
- Ammi Visnaga | Higgledy Garden: 500 seeds - £1.95
P&P charged First Class post: £2.00 (order £15 is free).
Sweet William (dianthus barbarous)
Sweet pea (Lathers ordoratus)
Narcissus Tate a Tate
Scabiosa atropurpurea 'Black Cat'
Cosmos bipinnatus 'Candy Stripe”
Everything you need to know about cosmos, the flower of 2016 | The Telegraph
2 Daucus carota 'Black Knight'
6 biennial stock matthiola flower
Brompton Mixed:
- Stock 'Dwarf Mixed' (Brompton Stocks) - Perennial & Biennial Seeds - Thompson & Morgan
- Annuals and Bbiennials -
Hardy annuals
Cornflowers,
Larkspur
Opium Poppy
Love-in-the-mist
Scabious
Sun-flowers
Sweet pea
Half hardy annuals
Floss flowers
Cosmos
Blue lace flowers
Black eyed Susan
Statice
Zinnia
Snapdragon
Biennials - Gillyflowers
- Stock flower info indicates there is a type of plant that’s actually named stock flower (commonly called Gillyflower) and botanically called Matthiola incana.
In areas without freezing winters, stock flower info says it may even perform as a perennial.
Stock flowers bloom from spring to summer, offering continuous blooms in the sunny garden when given the right stock plant care.
Growing stock is not a complicated project, but it does require a period of cold. The duration of cold needed as a part of stock plant care is two weeks for early blooming types and 3 weeks or more for late varieties.
the frugal gardener can plant seeds in winter and hope your cold spell lasts long enough. In this type of climate, stock flower info says the plant begins to bloom in late spring. In climates with winter freeze, expect blooms of growing stock plants to appear from late spring to late summer.
Brompton Mixed
Sweet Williams
Honesty
Iceland Poppy
Wallflower
Tubers
- Dahlia plant in early spring into large pots filled with multipurpose compost
Annual fillers
- Ammi
- Wild carrot
- Sweet Rocket
- Spurge
- Greater Quaking grass
Also:
- Gardens: how to grow your own cut flowers | Life and style | The Guardian
- Grow your own cut flower patch - in pictures | Life and style | The Guardian
- Creating a cutting garden - Saga
- Sow long: If you want a beautiful cuttings garden next summer, get those seeds in now | The Independent
- Late Summer & Early Autumn Sowing Of Hardy Annual Flower Seeds.
- The Higgledy Garden Shop | Higgledy Garden: P&P charged First Class post: £2.00 (order £15 is free).
At first I did grow flowers in raised beds in my back garden, and then when I took on an allotment I decoded to devote two beds on the plot to cut flowers.
Each year I learnt which plants gave me the most flowers, which were easy to grow and which lasted the longest when cut.
Early spring is the best time to start growing cut flowers but there are still plans and projects to be getting on with.
It is sowing biennials in summer or hardy annuals in autumn it is choosing the right plants.
Planning a cutting patch:
- sweet pea
- dahlia
- corn flowers
- love-in-the-mist
They are disappointingly short lived.
But...
Most cut flowers prefer neuteral soil PH7.
Shopping list:
1 dahlia karma choc
2 ammi visnaga
4 Sweet William (dianthus barbarous)
12 Sweet pea (Lathers ordoratus)
30 Narcissus Tate a Tate
2 Scabiosa atropurpurea 'Black Cat'
2 Cosmos bipinnatus 'Candy Stripe”
2 Daucus carota 'Black Knight'
6 biennial stock matthiola flower
Dahlia karma choc
Ammi visnaga.
- Ammi visnaga: 500 seeds - £1.95.
Sarah Raven: Seed-only orders have P&P charged at £2.50.
- Ammi Visnaga | Higgledy Garden: 500 seeds - £1.95
P&P charged First Class post: £2.00 (order £15 is free).
Sweet William (dianthus barbarous)
Sweet pea (Lathers ordoratus)
Narcissus Tate a Tate
Scabiosa atropurpurea 'Black Cat'
Cosmos bipinnatus 'Candy Stripe”
Everything you need to know about cosmos, the flower of 2016 | The Telegraph
2 Daucus carota 'Black Knight'
6 biennial stock matthiola flower
Brompton Mixed:
- Stock 'Dwarf Mixed' (Brompton Stocks) - Perennial & Biennial Seeds - Thompson & Morgan
- Annuals and Bbiennials -
Hardy annuals
Cornflowers,
Larkspur
Opium Poppy
Love-in-the-mist
Scabious
Sun-flowers
Sweet pea
Half hardy annuals
Floss flowers
Cosmos
Blue lace flowers
Black eyed Susan
Statice
Zinnia
Snapdragon
Biennials - Gillyflowers
- Stock flower info indicates there is a type of plant that’s actually named stock flower (commonly called Gillyflower) and botanically called Matthiola incana.
In areas without freezing winters, stock flower info says it may even perform as a perennial.
Stock flowers bloom from spring to summer, offering continuous blooms in the sunny garden when given the right stock plant care.
Growing stock is not a complicated project, but it does require a period of cold. The duration of cold needed as a part of stock plant care is two weeks for early blooming types and 3 weeks or more for late varieties.
the frugal gardener can plant seeds in winter and hope your cold spell lasts long enough. In this type of climate, stock flower info says the plant begins to bloom in late spring. In climates with winter freeze, expect blooms of growing stock plants to appear from late spring to late summer.
Brompton Mixed
Sweet Williams
Honesty
Iceland Poppy
Wallflower
Tubers
- Dahlia plant in early spring into large pots filled with multipurpose compost
Annual fillers
- Ammi
- Wild carrot
- Sweet Rocket
- Spurge
- Greater Quaking grass
Also:
- Gardens: how to grow your own cut flowers | Life and style | The Guardian
- Grow your own cut flower patch - in pictures | Life and style | The Guardian
- Creating a cutting garden - Saga
- Sow long: If you want a beautiful cuttings garden next summer, get those seeds in now | The Independent
- Late Summer & Early Autumn Sowing Of Hardy Annual Flower Seeds.
- The Higgledy Garden Shop | Higgledy Garden: P&P charged First Class post: £2.00 (order £15 is free).
Thursday 3 November 2016
Why Is My Red Dragon Japanese Maple Mostly Green?
- Why Is My Red Dragon Japanese Maple Mostly Green? | Home Guides | SF Gate
Graft Sprouts
Many types of red-leafed Japanese maples are grafted at a young age onto a rootstock from a green-leafed variety.
Sprouts that arise from below the graft point are usually the color of the rootstock parent species.
Left unpruned, green shoots can eventually outnumber the red branches, so these sprouts should be pruned away when they appear.
- hy Is My Japanese Maple Turning Green? | Home Guides | SF Gate
Graft Sprouts
Many types of red-leafed Japanese maples are grafted at a young age onto a rootstock from a green-leafed variety.
Sprouts that arise from below the graft point are usually the color of the rootstock parent species.
Left unpruned, green shoots can eventually outnumber the red branches, so these sprouts should be pruned away when they appear.
- hy Is My Japanese Maple Turning Green? | Home Guides | SF Gate
Monday 31 October 2016
Sunday 30 October 2016
Friday 28 October 2016
Planting. Sowing bulbs.
Thursday, 6 October 2016.
Wednesday, 5 October 2016.
Saturday, 22 October 2016.
Wednesday 26 October 2016
Tuesday 25 October 2016
Lakemont Grape Vine.
Monty Don's choice of Lakemont!
Lakemont Grape Vine - Vitis vinifera - Seedless
Monty Don's favorite grape, Lakemont is a sweet table grape, produces tight clusters of yellow-green grapes if grown in an unheated greenhouse or conservatory. Fruits well from late September if grown outside against a sunny wall in the south. Avoid alkaline (chalk) soil and provide good drainage.
Mildew resistant.
- How to Take Care of the Seedless Lakemont Plant | Home Guides | SF Gate
- Opening Hours | Groves Nurseries
- Gardens: grapevines | Life and style | The Guardian
Pruning advice
Buy bare-rooted plants while they are dormant.
Dig a hole a couple of feet across and the same depth, and mix the excavated soil with a good dose of organic matter before backfilling and firming down, planting the vine at the level at which it was originally grown.
Water generously for the first year.
Bates suggests cutting back hard in the spring after the first year of growth to promote root growth.
Shirley suggests spur pruning if you have a wall or structure to cover.
Train the main stem up the wall, tying in side shoots (laterals) horizontally to the nearest wire as they grow, one per wire.
Cut extras off.
Once the laterals have grown as far as you want them to, cut off the ends of the branches.
Sub-laterals will be formed off these and should be cut back to two buds.
Prune back to this framework every autumn.
- Seven vineyards you have to visit - right here in the UK | Travel News | Travel | Daily Express
Lakemont Grape Vine - Vitis vinifera - Seedless
Monty Don's favorite grape, Lakemont is a sweet table grape, produces tight clusters of yellow-green grapes if grown in an unheated greenhouse or conservatory. Fruits well from late September if grown outside against a sunny wall in the south. Avoid alkaline (chalk) soil and provide good drainage.
Mildew resistant.
- How to Take Care of the Seedless Lakemont Plant | Home Guides | SF Gate
- Opening Hours | Groves Nurseries
- Gardens: grapevines | Life and style | The Guardian
Pruning advice
Buy bare-rooted plants while they are dormant.
Dig a hole a couple of feet across and the same depth, and mix the excavated soil with a good dose of organic matter before backfilling and firming down, planting the vine at the level at which it was originally grown.
Water generously for the first year.
Bates suggests cutting back hard in the spring after the first year of growth to promote root growth.
Shirley suggests spur pruning if you have a wall or structure to cover.
Train the main stem up the wall, tying in side shoots (laterals) horizontally to the nearest wire as they grow, one per wire.
Cut extras off.
Once the laterals have grown as far as you want them to, cut off the ends of the branches.
Sub-laterals will be formed off these and should be cut back to two buds.
Prune back to this framework every autumn.
- Seven vineyards you have to visit - right here in the UK | Travel News | Travel | Daily Express
Gardens: Monty Don.
- Gardens: Monty Don gives a tour of his Herefordshire garden | From the Observer | The Guardian - 6 August 2000
It is difficult to know where to start describing the garden that Monty and his wife, Sarah, have created together since moving into their rambling 15th- to 16th- century farmhouse and adjoining stables in 1992.
For a start, the pathways that link the formal topiary garden at the front of the house with the interlocking herb, vegetable, flower and spring gardens at the back, run through the house.
Looking out from above, you see that it is designed almost as a series of rooms, each one with its own flavour.
There's the long corridor lined with noble alliums on either side.
There's the herb patch, the vegetable garden, the greenhouses, the Jewel Garden at the centre and the orchard trailing into the distance with its perfectly spaced trees - there are 36 varieties of apple.
As well as flowers, there are herbs - great clumps of basil, thyme, marjoram, lovage, parsley, tarragon, sage - and a well-stocked kitchen garden of fruit and vegetables, including broad beans, onions, sweetcorn, strawberries, potatoes, peas and big, juicy marrows.
There are frames crammed with cabbages, broccoli and Brussels sprouts, all ready for planting out.
In the greenhouse, there are leeks, radicchio and peppers.
- Monty Don on Chelsea Flower Show and the "nonsense" of Brexit - Page 2 - May 2016.
The presenter believes Britain leaving the EU is "complete nonsense"
He met his wife Sarah at Magdalene College, Cambridge, and there can be no doubting their rock solid union.
In the 1980s they ran a costume jewellery business with a Knightsbridge shop whose customers included Michael Jackson and Princess Diana, and at weekends tended their Hackney garden.
When the business faltered they took a bridging loan on a derelict Herefordshire farm, where Don gardened so furiously that Sarah told him he was “married” to it.
By the time their three children were born, the business had crashed, the farm was sold, and everything they owned with it.
For two years life was an endless winter of unemployment, before the season began to turn for Don with a gardening segment on breakfast television.
His two sons, Adam and Tom, and daughter Freya are in their mid-to-late twenties now.
Usually Don refuses to speak of them in interviews, but on this occasion serenity takes charge, his face flooded with light.
“We’ve always had a fairly informal relationship. I work with Adam, and speak to him every day as he runs the farm.
He’s lambing at the moment.
The others – I’ll ring up, we chat, share books, music, tell each other what we’ve done and seen.
I can remember my own mother snorting: ‘I don’t want to be your best friend! I’m your mother!’ I was brought up very strictly.
I love my children, I adore them. Would die for them, kill for them. We’re very honest with each other. At times that’s brutal; at others it’s liberating and enlightening.
We are good friends.”
The brief Monty: Life story
1955: Born Montagu Denis Wyatt Don in Berlin, son of an army officer, and the youngest of five children.
1979: At Magdalene College, Cambridge, meets his future wife, Sarah, with whom he elopes. They have three children.
1981: He and Sarah found a costume jewellery business in Kensington and come to count Elton John and Princess Diana among their clients.
1989: He makes his television debut on This Morning in a five-minute gardening slot with Richard and Judy.
1992: The jewellery business folds and he spends three years on the dole.
1994-2006" Writes a gardening column for the Observer.
2003: Succeeding Alan Titchmarsh, Don becomes the first amateur gardener to front Gardeners' World.
2005: Runs Growing out of Trouble, a televised project to help heroin addicts kick their habit by working the land.
2008: Publishes Around the World in 80 Gardens, his 12th gardening title. Becomes president of the Soil Association.
He says: "I have never bought into the school of thought that says gardening is an emollient for the cracked skin of modern life."
They say: 'He was the perfect Gardeners' World presenter, bringing calm, tenderness, immense knowledge and quiet gravitas to television." Nigel Slater
Hermione Hoby
It is difficult to know where to start describing the garden that Monty and his wife, Sarah, have created together since moving into their rambling 15th- to 16th- century farmhouse and adjoining stables in 1992.
For a start, the pathways that link the formal topiary garden at the front of the house with the interlocking herb, vegetable, flower and spring gardens at the back, run through the house.
Looking out from above, you see that it is designed almost as a series of rooms, each one with its own flavour.
There's the long corridor lined with noble alliums on either side.
There's the herb patch, the vegetable garden, the greenhouses, the Jewel Garden at the centre and the orchard trailing into the distance with its perfectly spaced trees - there are 36 varieties of apple.
As well as flowers, there are herbs - great clumps of basil, thyme, marjoram, lovage, parsley, tarragon, sage - and a well-stocked kitchen garden of fruit and vegetables, including broad beans, onions, sweetcorn, strawberries, potatoes, peas and big, juicy marrows.
There are frames crammed with cabbages, broccoli and Brussels sprouts, all ready for planting out.
In the greenhouse, there are leeks, radicchio and peppers.
- Monty Don on Chelsea Flower Show and the "nonsense" of Brexit - Page 2 - May 2016.
The presenter believes Britain leaving the EU is "complete nonsense"
He met his wife Sarah at Magdalene College, Cambridge, and there can be no doubting their rock solid union.
In the 1980s they ran a costume jewellery business with a Knightsbridge shop whose customers included Michael Jackson and Princess Diana, and at weekends tended their Hackney garden.
When the business faltered they took a bridging loan on a derelict Herefordshire farm, where Don gardened so furiously that Sarah told him he was “married” to it.
By the time their three children were born, the business had crashed, the farm was sold, and everything they owned with it.
For two years life was an endless winter of unemployment, before the season began to turn for Don with a gardening segment on breakfast television.
His two sons, Adam and Tom, and daughter Freya are in their mid-to-late twenties now.
Usually Don refuses to speak of them in interviews, but on this occasion serenity takes charge, his face flooded with light.
“We’ve always had a fairly informal relationship. I work with Adam, and speak to him every day as he runs the farm.
He’s lambing at the moment.
The others – I’ll ring up, we chat, share books, music, tell each other what we’ve done and seen.
I can remember my own mother snorting: ‘I don’t want to be your best friend! I’m your mother!’ I was brought up very strictly.
I love my children, I adore them. Would die for them, kill for them. We’re very honest with each other. At times that’s brutal; at others it’s liberating and enlightening.
We are good friends.”
The brief Monty: Life story
1955: Born Montagu Denis Wyatt Don in Berlin, son of an army officer, and the youngest of five children.
1979: At Magdalene College, Cambridge, meets his future wife, Sarah, with whom he elopes. They have three children.
1981: He and Sarah found a costume jewellery business in Kensington and come to count Elton John and Princess Diana among their clients.
1989: He makes his television debut on This Morning in a five-minute gardening slot with Richard and Judy.
1992: The jewellery business folds and he spends three years on the dole.
1994-2006" Writes a gardening column for the Observer.
2003: Succeeding Alan Titchmarsh, Don becomes the first amateur gardener to front Gardeners' World.
2005: Runs Growing out of Trouble, a televised project to help heroin addicts kick their habit by working the land.
2008: Publishes Around the World in 80 Gardens, his 12th gardening title. Becomes president of the Soil Association.
He says: "I have never bought into the school of thought that says gardening is an emollient for the cracked skin of modern life."
They say: 'He was the perfect Gardeners' World presenter, bringing calm, tenderness, immense knowledge and quiet gravitas to television." Nigel Slater
Hermione Hoby
Biennials.
BBC Two - Gardeners' World, 2016, Episode 13
Biennials
A biennial takes two years to complete its life cycle. In its first year, it grows and stores energy so that it can flower and set seed in its second. Many are easy to raise from seed – the problem is remembering to sow them in June! Here are 10 you might like to try:
Dianthus barbatus (Sweet William)
Digitalis purpurea (Foxglove)
Erysimum cheiri (Wallflower)
Hesperis matronalis (Sweet rocket)
Lunaria annua (Honesty)
Matthiola incana (Brompton stock)
Myosotis sylvatica (Forget-me-not)
Oenothera biennis (Evening primrose)
Onopordum acanthium (Cotton thistle)
Verbascum bombyciferum
Biennials
A biennial takes two years to complete its life cycle. In its first year, it grows and stores energy so that it can flower and set seed in its second. Many are easy to raise from seed – the problem is remembering to sow them in June! Here are 10 you might like to try:
Dianthus barbatus (Sweet William)
Digitalis purpurea (Foxglove)
Erysimum cheiri (Wallflower)
Hesperis matronalis (Sweet rocket)
Lunaria annua (Honesty)
Matthiola incana (Brompton stock)
Myosotis sylvatica (Forget-me-not)
Oenothera biennis (Evening primrose)
Onopordum acanthium (Cotton thistle)
Verbascum bombyciferum
Monday 24 October 2016
Saturday 22 October 2016
Welsh Onions / Japanese Bunching Onions.
- Welsh Onions / Japanese Bunching Onions (the Same Thing) | Sustainable Vegetable Gardening
Welsh onions and Japanese bunching onions are the same thing: Allium Fistulosum. They are recognisable from other onions because they have a round cross section when cutting through the leaves whereas the ordinary onion (Allium Cepa) has a ‘D’ shaped cross section.
Welsh onion is your bog standard type and can be found half a dozen in a small pot in any garden centre in the herb section. They grow big with the help of some compost or fertiliser but the bulb grows no bigger than a shallot and is eaten as a spring onion, leaf, shank and bulb.
The species in my experience (and I fell foul of this) is divided into two and not along the Welsh/Japanese thing. There are two main types, those that divide readily much like a shallot and those that grow into one bigger leak like plant that only rarely divides. For those of us who are interested in sustainability the dividing type is what interests us but the leek type is also cut and come again.
All of them are perennial but only a few will stand well over winter, even in my milder south-west English garden. Most varieties lose their greenery in winter and may rise again next Spring as long as it hasn’t been too cold or the soil too wet.
Unlike most other onions they stay green late in the summer and don’t die back.
Propagation
Division. The dividing types can be, well, divided and replanted.
Eat half and replant half.
I find they divide twice a year but then I am not the best gardener. YMMV.
By seed. It is easy to collect seed.
I collected seed from just one bunch of plants and they produced hundreds of seeds which I sowed two months later and got a very high germination rate.
The plant will put up a flower head on a hard stalk early in its second year.
Wait until the flower starts going dry and you will see little black seeds.
Shake them into a paper envelope and voila.
Varieties
Kyoto Market. One of the best. Divides freely, the greenery stands well over winter. Not the biggest though, but not small either.
Ishikura. Big Japanese leek type but doesn’t easily divide. Cut it to 1 cm above the earth and it will resprout again and again.
Welsh Onion. Divides regularly and quite big but disappears during winter. Most of them should come back early Spring but I have lost some in waterlogged soil. Plants easily bought in garden centres in the herb section.
I’m experimenting with other varieties including White Lisbon Winter Hardy which I hope does what it says on the tin.
- Onion Seed 'Siberian Everlasting' (Welsh Onion)
- Grow leeks from seed (in pictures) | gardenersworld.com
Welsh onions and Japanese bunching onions are the same thing: Allium Fistulosum. They are recognisable from other onions because they have a round cross section when cutting through the leaves whereas the ordinary onion (Allium Cepa) has a ‘D’ shaped cross section.
Welsh onion is your bog standard type and can be found half a dozen in a small pot in any garden centre in the herb section. They grow big with the help of some compost or fertiliser but the bulb grows no bigger than a shallot and is eaten as a spring onion, leaf, shank and bulb.
The species in my experience (and I fell foul of this) is divided into two and not along the Welsh/Japanese thing. There are two main types, those that divide readily much like a shallot and those that grow into one bigger leak like plant that only rarely divides. For those of us who are interested in sustainability the dividing type is what interests us but the leek type is also cut and come again.
All of them are perennial but only a few will stand well over winter, even in my milder south-west English garden. Most varieties lose their greenery in winter and may rise again next Spring as long as it hasn’t been too cold or the soil too wet.
Unlike most other onions they stay green late in the summer and don’t die back.
Propagation
Division. The dividing types can be, well, divided and replanted.
Eat half and replant half.
I find they divide twice a year but then I am not the best gardener. YMMV.
By seed. It is easy to collect seed.
I collected seed from just one bunch of plants and they produced hundreds of seeds which I sowed two months later and got a very high germination rate.
The plant will put up a flower head on a hard stalk early in its second year.
Wait until the flower starts going dry and you will see little black seeds.
Shake them into a paper envelope and voila.
Varieties
Kyoto Market. One of the best. Divides freely, the greenery stands well over winter. Not the biggest though, but not small either.
Ishikura. Big Japanese leek type but doesn’t easily divide. Cut it to 1 cm above the earth and it will resprout again and again.
Welsh Onion. Divides regularly and quite big but disappears during winter. Most of them should come back early Spring but I have lost some in waterlogged soil. Plants easily bought in garden centres in the herb section.
I’m experimenting with other varieties including White Lisbon Winter Hardy which I hope does what it says on the tin.
- Onion Seed 'Siberian Everlasting' (Welsh Onion)
- Grow leeks from seed (in pictures) | gardenersworld.com
Japanese wineberry.
- How to grow Japanese wineberry - Telegraph
- Alys Fowler: Japanese wineberries | Life and style | The Guardian
- propagating japanese wineberry | Out of my shed
Japanese wineberries fruit on the previous year’s growth.
Which means I planted the canes in autumn 2009, the stems grew last year (2010) and this is their first fruiting season (2011).
Achingly simple to propagate, these arching stems will start forming roots as soon as they hit the soil.
After all the fruit has been picked, cut the stems on which the fruit formed down to the ground in late August/September, leaving this years new growth for the plant to fruit on next year.
These very attractive fruit canes will grow in sun or part shade, so a real winner for any part of the garden, potager or allotment.
Best planted bare- rooted in autumn, I bought mine from Ken Muir Fruit Nursery and see they’re also available at Victoriana Nursery.
- Alys Fowler: Japanese wineberries | Life and style | The Guardian
- propagating japanese wineberry | Out of my shed
Japanese wineberries fruit on the previous year’s growth.
Which means I planted the canes in autumn 2009, the stems grew last year (2010) and this is their first fruiting season (2011).
Achingly simple to propagate, these arching stems will start forming roots as soon as they hit the soil.
After all the fruit has been picked, cut the stems on which the fruit formed down to the ground in late August/September, leaving this years new growth for the plant to fruit on next year.
These very attractive fruit canes will grow in sun or part shade, so a real winner for any part of the garden, potager or allotment.
Best planted bare- rooted in autumn, I bought mine from Ken Muir Fruit Nursery and see they’re also available at Victoriana Nursery.
Tuesday 18 October 2016
Trained Fruit.
- Trained Forms Index | An Englishman's Garden Adventures
- Trained Fruit | An Englishman's Garden Adventures
- Current Fans | An Englishman's Garden Adventures
White and red currents lend themselves readily to this kind of training, because unlike black currents they fruit well on ‘old wood’.
Hence, they can be trained to make a permanent framework of branches (in this case in a fan) from which they will produce short fruiting side shoots.
Black currents, on the other hand, will only fruit on relatively young wood – they need a third of their main stems removing every year to rejuvenate them, so could not be pruned to a permanent framework.
- Standard Currant Bushes – how do I grow them? | Fruit Forum
- Buy our Fruit and Ornamental trees from these Garden Centres
- Trained Fruit | An Englishman's Garden Adventures
- Current Fans | An Englishman's Garden Adventures
White and red currents lend themselves readily to this kind of training, because unlike black currents they fruit well on ‘old wood’.
Hence, they can be trained to make a permanent framework of branches (in this case in a fan) from which they will produce short fruiting side shoots.
Black currents, on the other hand, will only fruit on relatively young wood – they need a third of their main stems removing every year to rejuvenate them, so could not be pruned to a permanent framework.
- Standard Currant Bushes – how do I grow them? | Fruit Forum
- Buy our Fruit and Ornamental trees from these Garden Centres
Monday 17 October 2016
Sunday 16 October 2016
Подзимний сев на огороде.
Подзимний сев на огороде - Садовое обозрение
В первую очередь под зиму сеют пряные травы, включая многолетние (мяты, душица, мелисса, бораго и т.д.), многолетние культуры (ревень, спаржа, щавель, черный корень и овсяный корнень, шнитт-лук, слизун и другие многолетние луки).
Важно посеять семена культур, которых содержат большое количество эфирных масел: морковь, пастернак, петрушку, укроп лук-чернушку.
Лучше специальные сорта, но и любые раннеспелые дадут дружные всходы и хороший урожай.
Хорошие результаты дают подзимние посевы свёклы, мангольда, кориандра, шпината.
Отлично всходят листовые салаты, салатная горчица, рукола, редиска и листовые капусты.
Впрочем, капуста всякая хорошо всходит и дает крепкую рассаду.
Вот только кочанные капусты сею на теплую грядку, чтобы как можно раньше весной ее накрыть и получить мощную рассаду уже к началу мая.
Сейчас самое время запастись семенами для подзимнего сева.
Ищите свеклу сортов Северный шар, Подзимняя, Полярная плоская, Холодостойкая-19, морковь Каротель, Нантская, Витаминная, Шантане 2461, Шантане 14.
Семена всех остальных пригодных для подзимнего сева овощных культур выбирайте по принципу скороспелости, а семена чернушки только тех сортов, что способны давать луковицу за один сезон.
В первую очередь под зиму сеют пряные травы, включая многолетние (мяты, душица, мелисса, бораго и т.д.), многолетние культуры (ревень, спаржа, щавель, черный корень и овсяный корнень, шнитт-лук, слизун и другие многолетние луки).
Важно посеять семена культур, которых содержат большое количество эфирных масел: морковь, пастернак, петрушку, укроп лук-чернушку.
Лучше специальные сорта, но и любые раннеспелые дадут дружные всходы и хороший урожай.
Хорошие результаты дают подзимние посевы свёклы, мангольда, кориандра, шпината.
Отлично всходят листовые салаты, салатная горчица, рукола, редиска и листовые капусты.
Впрочем, капуста всякая хорошо всходит и дает крепкую рассаду.
Вот только кочанные капусты сею на теплую грядку, чтобы как можно раньше весной ее накрыть и получить мощную рассаду уже к началу мая.
Сейчас самое время запастись семенами для подзимнего сева.
Ищите свеклу сортов Северный шар, Подзимняя, Полярная плоская, Холодостойкая-19, морковь Каротель, Нантская, Витаминная, Шантане 2461, Шантане 14.
Семена всех остальных пригодных для подзимнего сева овощных культур выбирайте по принципу скороспелости, а семена чернушки только тех сортов, что способны давать луковицу за один сезон.
Sunday 9 October 2016
Friday 7 October 2016
Monday 3 October 2016
Sunday 2 October 2016
Why Helen Dillon in Dublin has the best walled town garden.
- Why Helen Dillon in Dublin has the best walled town garden — FT.com
- Helen Dillion recommends planting your flowers in pots and moving them centre stage | Life and style | The Guardian
- Helen Dillon bids farewell to her Ranelagh garden
Helen, now 78, and her antiques dealer husband, Val Dillon (80), have reached that point where many people in possession of a sizeable home and garden arrive. It’s time to downsize. So there’s no weeping and gnashing of teeth over leaving the wonderful Sandford Terrace garden that thousands have visited since Helen opened it to the public 25 years ago.
- Helen Dillion recommends planting your flowers in pots and moving them centre stage | Life and style | The Guardian
- Helen Dillon bids farewell to her Ranelagh garden
Helen, now 78, and her antiques dealer husband, Val Dillon (80), have reached that point where many people in possession of a sizeable home and garden arrive. It’s time to downsize. So there’s no weeping and gnashing of teeth over leaving the wonderful Sandford Terrace garden that thousands have visited since Helen opened it to the public 25 years ago.
Tuesday 20 September 2016
Chrysanthemum/Belgian Mums ‘Isaura White’
Chrysanthemum/Belgian Mums ‘Isaura White’
This chrysanthemum has a compact habit forming a ‘ball’ shaped plant with white flowers that appear in summer/autumn.
Suitable for patio planters and large pots. If kept in a cool spot the plant will flower for a longer period.
Prefers part shade and grows to a height of approximately 30cms and spread of 50cm.
Please don’t worry if your plant arrives looking slightly different to the image here. Plants can look different depending on the time of year when purchased.
If this plant is out of season you can pre-order it and it will be dispatched once it becomes available again. This plant should be available from August to November.
This chrysanthemum has a compact habit forming a ‘ball’ shaped plant with white flowers that appear in summer/autumn.
Suitable for patio planters and large pots. If kept in a cool spot the plant will flower for a longer period.
Prefers part shade and grows to a height of approximately 30cms and spread of 50cm.
Please don’t worry if your plant arrives looking slightly different to the image here. Plants can look different depending on the time of year when purchased.
If this plant is out of season you can pre-order it and it will be dispatched once it becomes available again. This plant should be available from August to November.
Saturday 17 September 2016
Wednesday 31 August 2016
Zucchini.
My: Spaghetti squash — or vegetable spaghetti, Courgette Geode, Yellow courgettes.
Времена года / Four seasons: Courgette recipes.
- Zucchini Facts, Health Benefits and Nutritional Value
- How to Cook Spaghetti Squash - 4 Ways
Method: Pierce the squash several times with a sharp knife. (Do this especially if you're microwaving it, or you may end up with a "Squash Explosion.")
Bake about an hour in the oven at 375F/190C. (How To Cook Spaghetti Squash in the Oven — Cooking Lessons from The Kitchn | The Kitchn)
Microwave 10 to 12 minutes, then let stand for 5 minutes or so afterward to finish steaming.
Boil for half an hour or so.
Like pumpkin and other winter squashes, whole uncooked spaghetti squash is best stored between 10C - 15C, and will last up to six months this way.
If you have a room in your home that isn't well-heated, maybe you can use some space in it as a "root cellar" to store onions, squash, apples, and the like.
Our guest room often has vegetables on the bed in the cooler months of the year.
On the other hand, spaghetti squash will keep several weeks at room temperature.
Wednesday 24 August 2016
Moth Proofer Balls.
because they have poor eyesight the moles are good at scents.
so to set a trap leave it hung up in your garden to get rid of any scent.
the a few days later set the trap using two spades back to back then ease them apart and drop the trap in the run after setting it.
do not put your hands on the bit you are going to put in the run but use a stick to set it.
alternatively you could put napthine ( moth balls) down in the run .
One pack of 20 Zensect Bouchard Moth Proofer Balls with a New & improved formula and a Lavender Fragrance. These moth proofer balls protect all fabrics for up to 3 months and leave no stains. Efficient & safe for all the family including and efficiency indicator to let you know when to change.: Amazon.co.uk: Kitchen & Home
so to set a trap leave it hung up in your garden to get rid of any scent.
the a few days later set the trap using two spades back to back then ease them apart and drop the trap in the run after setting it.
do not put your hands on the bit you are going to put in the run but use a stick to set it.
alternatively you could put napthine ( moth balls) down in the run .
One pack of 20 Zensect Bouchard Moth Proofer Balls with a New & improved formula and a Lavender Fragrance. These moth proofer balls protect all fabrics for up to 3 months and leave no stains. Efficient & safe for all the family including and efficiency indicator to let you know when to change.: Amazon.co.uk: Kitchen & Home
Tuesday 16 August 2016
Tuesday 9 August 2016
Homemade Garlic-Mint Garden Insect Spray .
- Homemade Garlic-Mint Garden Insect Spray {that really works!!}
- Homemade Garlic-Mint Garden Insect Spray {that really works!!} - Page 2 of 2
INGREDIENTS
2 whole heads garlic, cloves separated and peeled
3 cup. mint leaves (and stems, too - I just throw it all in now)
2 tsp. dry cayenne pepper
12 cup. water
2 small squirts of biodegradable dishwashing liquid
DIRECTIONS
Add the garlic and mint to a food processor and pulse for a few seconds.
Transfer mixture to a large pot and add the cayenne and 12c. water.
Bring to a boil; remove from heat and let sit overnight.
Strain into a couple spray bottles (or gallon garden sprayer) and add the two small squirts of dish soap.
To Use:
- shake well before each use
- this mainly repels bugs, though if they rub against it, it can kill them.
- spray all the leaves on affected plants, including the undersides - preferably on a cloudy day so as not to burn the plants.
- wait a few days to see the affect and then apply more if needed (many times I’ve only needed to do one application)
NOTES
- This is like a pepper spray, so you can protect your skin and eyes like you would when using any hot peppers, although the potency is less because it only uses dried cayenne.
- Wait a few days to harvest after using so there isn't any spicy residuals (I only used 2 applications the whole summer, so there never was any taste to the produce).
- The scent keeps bugs away, but I still had ladybugs and bees, maybe because I only used the spray a few times.
- Homemade Garlic-Mint Garden Insect Spray {that really works!!} - Page 2 of 2
INGREDIENTS
2 whole heads garlic, cloves separated and peeled
3 cup. mint leaves (and stems, too - I just throw it all in now)
2 tsp. dry cayenne pepper
12 cup. water
2 small squirts of biodegradable dishwashing liquid
DIRECTIONS
Add the garlic and mint to a food processor and pulse for a few seconds.
Transfer mixture to a large pot and add the cayenne and 12c. water.
Bring to a boil; remove from heat and let sit overnight.
Strain into a couple spray bottles (or gallon garden sprayer) and add the two small squirts of dish soap.
To Use:
- shake well before each use
- this mainly repels bugs, though if they rub against it, it can kill them.
- spray all the leaves on affected plants, including the undersides - preferably on a cloudy day so as not to burn the plants.
- wait a few days to see the affect and then apply more if needed (many times I’ve only needed to do one application)
NOTES
- This is like a pepper spray, so you can protect your skin and eyes like you would when using any hot peppers, although the potency is less because it only uses dried cayenne.
- Wait a few days to harvest after using so there isn't any spicy residuals (I only used 2 applications the whole summer, so there never was any taste to the produce).
- The scent keeps bugs away, but I still had ladybugs and bees, maybe because I only used the spray a few times.
Thursday 4 August 2016
Tuesday 2 August 2016
Choosing a green manure.
- Choosing the right Green Manure
Use the table on WEB when Choosing Green Manure Seeds to help work out which one will be best for you.
- Gardening Features - Timely Gardening Advice from Crocus.co.uk
You have plenty of choice; which green manure you choose will depend on when you intend to sow it and how long you are prepared to leave it growing before incorporating it into your soil.
For most people, a green manure that can be sown in late summer or early autumn and left to grow over the winter would be best.
Clovers or rye grasses are perfect for this and will have time to grow before digging in during early spring a few weeks before planting.
On heavy soils, digging during early spring is not a good idea because you will damage the soil structure as you work.
In this case, a tender quick-growing crop, such as buckwheat or fenugreek, would be a better bet because it will put on growth if sown straight after the last crop is harvested in late summer to be killed by the first heavy frost of winter and incorporated during normal autumn cultivation.
If you have a new garden or a barren plot that you don't intend to cultivate or plant for at least a year, then one of the longer-term green manure crops, such as alfalfa or alsike clover are worth sowing.
If you find that you are ready to tackle the area earlier than expected, these green manures can be dug in at any time.
Just leave a few weeks for them to rot down before planting.
- Sow a patch and replenish your plot - Telegraph
...every year that I don’t plump for anything permanent, I can fill it with phacelia.
Green manures are one of the cornerstones of organic agriculture, essential to promoting a healthy soil, free of man-made fertilisers and encouraging a deep humus-rich topsoil.
There’s no reason why we shouldn’t enjoy their many benefits in the garden or allotment.
If you’ve an allotment, casting a few handfuls of Hungarian grazing rye over an empty end-of-season bed means that when you return, refreshed, after winter, the soil is in better heart than when you left it.
Yellow trefoil sown under tall plants like climbing beans is a beautiful way of covering the soil, attracting insects, retaining water and cutting down on weeding.
And if you’ve recently taken on an allotment and the initial enthusiasm has given way to a little trepidation, consider giving some of the space over to summer green manures.
This allows you to concentrate on making a success of a smaller area, while enriching the rest to expand into when your confidence is up.
How to grow
Green manures are fantastically easy to use: for most, it’s as simple as broadcasting them direct in as good a tilth as it’s practical for you to prepare, lightly raking over and leaving them undisturbed to germinate and grow.
Although some green manures will last for many months, most can be used as temporary space fillers, cut down and dug in after three months or so.
Some grow beautifully in combination.
I use a summer mix of phacelia, buckwheat and white clover to maximise the insect invasion while improving the nutrient status and structure of the soil.
Now is the perfect time to sow many of them.
Summer green manures
Phacelia Sow between March to September.
The flowers draw in beneficial insects. May last all winter in the south of the country.
Buckwheat Sow between April and August.
A deep-rooting green manure that grows happily on poor ground, improving it as it grows.
A fine insect attractor, too.
White clover Sow between April and August.
A low-growing nitrogen fixer with white flowers that attract insects.
Yellow trefoil Sow between April and August.
A low-growing nitrogen fixer with yellow flowers, perfect as an insect-attracting ground cover between tall plants – I undersow peas and beans with it to keep moisture in and weeds out.
Winter green manures
Although usually not as striking as their summer equivalents, the overwintering green manures are invaluable for protecting and enriching the soil during the harsher months.
Hungarian grazing rye Sow August-September.
Like a large, rough grass, this is the one for fast-growing, overwintering coverage, producing lots of green to be dug in in spring.
Crimson clover Sow between April and August.
A nitrogen fixer that grows taller than white clover, with elegant crimson flowers through the summer.
Alfalfa Sow between May and July.
Not the prettiest, but it makes up for it in hard work through the winter, drawing up minerals and nutrients from the subsoil – essential elements for healthy plant growth – while fixing nitrogen.
Red clover Sow between April and August, adding nitrogen to the soil and attracting beneficial insects.
Can last for two years or so, making it ideal should you need longer-lasting coverage.
Field beans Sow between September and November.
An excellent, fast-growing winter cover that also adds nitrogen to the soil.
Find where to buy:
- The finest range of Green Manure Seeds for all soil types.
- Amazon.co.uk: Green Manure - Summer Mix: Garden & Outdoors
My choice:
Yellow trefoil
Crimson Clover
Mustard
General Mix
Phacelia
Use the table on WEB when Choosing Green Manure Seeds to help work out which one will be best for you.
- Gardening Features - Timely Gardening Advice from Crocus.co.uk
You have plenty of choice; which green manure you choose will depend on when you intend to sow it and how long you are prepared to leave it growing before incorporating it into your soil.
For most people, a green manure that can be sown in late summer or early autumn and left to grow over the winter would be best.
Clovers or rye grasses are perfect for this and will have time to grow before digging in during early spring a few weeks before planting.
On heavy soils, digging during early spring is not a good idea because you will damage the soil structure as you work.
In this case, a tender quick-growing crop, such as buckwheat or fenugreek, would be a better bet because it will put on growth if sown straight after the last crop is harvested in late summer to be killed by the first heavy frost of winter and incorporated during normal autumn cultivation.
If you have a new garden or a barren plot that you don't intend to cultivate or plant for at least a year, then one of the longer-term green manure crops, such as alfalfa or alsike clover are worth sowing.
If you find that you are ready to tackle the area earlier than expected, these green manures can be dug in at any time.
Just leave a few weeks for them to rot down before planting.
- Sow a patch and replenish your plot - Telegraph
...every year that I don’t plump for anything permanent, I can fill it with phacelia.
Green manures are one of the cornerstones of organic agriculture, essential to promoting a healthy soil, free of man-made fertilisers and encouraging a deep humus-rich topsoil.
There’s no reason why we shouldn’t enjoy their many benefits in the garden or allotment.
If you’ve an allotment, casting a few handfuls of Hungarian grazing rye over an empty end-of-season bed means that when you return, refreshed, after winter, the soil is in better heart than when you left it.
Yellow trefoil sown under tall plants like climbing beans is a beautiful way of covering the soil, attracting insects, retaining water and cutting down on weeding.
And if you’ve recently taken on an allotment and the initial enthusiasm has given way to a little trepidation, consider giving some of the space over to summer green manures.
This allows you to concentrate on making a success of a smaller area, while enriching the rest to expand into when your confidence is up.
How to grow
Green manures are fantastically easy to use: for most, it’s as simple as broadcasting them direct in as good a tilth as it’s practical for you to prepare, lightly raking over and leaving them undisturbed to germinate and grow.
Although some green manures will last for many months, most can be used as temporary space fillers, cut down and dug in after three months or so.
Some grow beautifully in combination.
I use a summer mix of phacelia, buckwheat and white clover to maximise the insect invasion while improving the nutrient status and structure of the soil.
Now is the perfect time to sow many of them.
Summer green manures
Phacelia Sow between March to September.
The flowers draw in beneficial insects. May last all winter in the south of the country.
Buckwheat Sow between April and August.
A deep-rooting green manure that grows happily on poor ground, improving it as it grows.
A fine insect attractor, too.
White clover Sow between April and August.
A low-growing nitrogen fixer with white flowers that attract insects.
Yellow trefoil Sow between April and August.
A low-growing nitrogen fixer with yellow flowers, perfect as an insect-attracting ground cover between tall plants – I undersow peas and beans with it to keep moisture in and weeds out.
Winter green manures
Although usually not as striking as their summer equivalents, the overwintering green manures are invaluable for protecting and enriching the soil during the harsher months.
Hungarian grazing rye Sow August-September.
Like a large, rough grass, this is the one for fast-growing, overwintering coverage, producing lots of green to be dug in in spring.
Crimson clover Sow between April and August.
A nitrogen fixer that grows taller than white clover, with elegant crimson flowers through the summer.
Alfalfa Sow between May and July.
Not the prettiest, but it makes up for it in hard work through the winter, drawing up minerals and nutrients from the subsoil – essential elements for healthy plant growth – while fixing nitrogen.
Red clover Sow between April and August, adding nitrogen to the soil and attracting beneficial insects.
Can last for two years or so, making it ideal should you need longer-lasting coverage.
Field beans Sow between September and November.
An excellent, fast-growing winter cover that also adds nitrogen to the soil.
Find where to buy:
- The finest range of Green Manure Seeds for all soil types.
- Amazon.co.uk: Green Manure - Summer Mix: Garden & Outdoors
My choice:
Yellow trefoil
Crimson Clover
Mustard
General Mix
Phacelia
Monday 1 August 2016
Kale - 'kalettes'.
Move over kale - we're all eating 'kalettes' now - Telegraph
A combination of kale and Brussels sprouts, "kalettes" are the latest vegetable.
Sweet and nutty in flavour, the vegetable looks like a mini cabbage with delicate, kale-like leaves.
Fans claim it is more versatile and quicker to cook than either of its parents, which tend to be boiled, steamed, or hidden in a smoothie.
Kalettes, however, can be sautéed, roasted, grilled, microwaved and even eaten raw.
A combination of kale and Brussels sprouts, "kalettes" are the latest vegetable.
Sweet and nutty in flavour, the vegetable looks like a mini cabbage with delicate, kale-like leaves.
Fans claim it is more versatile and quicker to cook than either of its parents, which tend to be boiled, steamed, or hidden in a smoothie.
Kalettes, however, can be sautéed, roasted, grilled, microwaved and even eaten raw.
Понедельник! 1 августа.
1 august - allotment results!
Весь покрытый зеленью, абсолютно весь,
Остров невезения в океане есть.
...........................
На лицо ужасные, добрые внутри.
..........................
Крокодил не ловится, не растёт кокос...
...........................
Вроде не бездельники и могли бы жить,
Им бы понедельники взять и отменить.
Это про Англию! Особенно сегодняшнюю...
Мои кабачки как и автобусы - приходят все сразу.
Spaghetti squash.
Spaghetti is a winter squash harvested in fall in late Sept or October when the vine is mostly dead and the squash itself has a hard rind and are a bright solid golden yellow...makes it a useful gluten-free or low-calorie substitution in pasta recipes.
Мякоть кабачка-спагетти представляет из себя длинные волокна, очень напоминающие макароны спагетти.
После термической обработки мякоть созревшего кабачка расслаивается на длинные волокна, напоминающие по внешнему виду спагетти.
Кабачок Спагетти (ФОТО) - удивительные овощи!
Fennel bulb/Фе́нхель обыкнове́нный и моя любимая Лимо́нная вербе́на (лат. Aloýsia citrodóra)...вы только прислушайтесь: Алои́зия...Благодаря лимонному запаху растение используется в качестве приправы к сладким блюдам и как компонент травяных чаёв.
Cavolo nero + kale.
Здесь хозяйничают вредители - листья поедены.
Укроп и аспарагус...здесь хозяйничает ветер.
Growing gooseberry cordon.
Часть крыжовника буду выращивать на шпале́ре (кордон).
"Высаживаем кусты на полосе шириной 1,5 м, затем самые сильные и наиболее освещенные ветви располагаем вертикально на двух шпалерах, которые стоят друг напротив друга.
При этом способе формировки количество ветвей также ограничено и они расположены только вертикально, поэтому куст становится плоским. Такое расположение ветвей хорошо тем, что дает возможность высаживать крыжовник на узкой полоске почвы, а это очень ценно для небольших дачных участков."
Read more: http://syperdacha.ru/kry-zhovnik-vy-rashhivanie-i-uhod/#ixzz4G5YZBQb7
Это травки всякие...Тимья́н (чабрец)/Thyme; garden sage/Шалфе́й лека́рственный; Flat-leaved parsley/петрушка...мята!
Мое новое увлечение - Hugelkultur! ...вынужденное увлечение.
Почва у нас на огороде песчаная. Вносили кучу навоза - уходит в песок!)))
Решила попробовать этот метод! Сформировала первую грядку. Хотела сфотографировать весь процесс, но увлеклась...так что первое фото не мое, а из интернета.
Грядка еще не закончена вполне, думаю посадить в нее озимый чеснок или клубнику.
Hugelkultur -which is German for "hill culture" - it's a cool thing to try.
"A lot of times when you grow, says, raspberries, you end up having to water it a lot to keep the raspberries alive, then the raspberry flavor is diminished.
It's kind of watery-flavoredю"
"Whereas, the raspberry plant finds water in the rotted wood from last winter, which is rich in nutrients, which then in turn makes it so that the raspberry flavor is very rich."
You'll find more detailed instructions, including video, on Wheaton's website, Richsoil.com.
А сегодня в нашем городе дождь, тот, которого так не хваталов это холодное и засушливое лето.
Так что мы предались разврату - испекли творожное печенье!
Рецепт на английском в моем блоге!
Весь покрытый зеленью, абсолютно весь,
Остров невезения в океане есть.
...........................
На лицо ужасные, добрые внутри.
..........................
Крокодил не ловится, не растёт кокос...
...........................
Вроде не бездельники и могли бы жить,
Им бы понедельники взять и отменить.
Это про Англию! Особенно сегодняшнюю...
Мои кабачки как и автобусы - приходят все сразу.
Spaghetti squash.
Spaghetti is a winter squash harvested in fall in late Sept or October when the vine is mostly dead and the squash itself has a hard rind and are a bright solid golden yellow...makes it a useful gluten-free or low-calorie substitution in pasta recipes.
Мякоть кабачка-спагетти представляет из себя длинные волокна, очень напоминающие макароны спагетти.
После термической обработки мякоть созревшего кабачка расслаивается на длинные волокна, напоминающие по внешнему виду спагетти.
Кабачок Спагетти (ФОТО) - удивительные овощи!
Fennel bulb/Фе́нхель обыкнове́нный и моя любимая Лимо́нная вербе́на (лат. Aloýsia citrodóra)...вы только прислушайтесь: Алои́зия...Благодаря лимонному запаху растение используется в качестве приправы к сладким блюдам и как компонент травяных чаёв.
Cavolo nero + kale.
Здесь хозяйничают вредители - листья поедены.
Укроп и аспарагус...здесь хозяйничает ветер.
Growing gooseberry cordon.
Часть крыжовника буду выращивать на шпале́ре (кордон).
"Высаживаем кусты на полосе шириной 1,5 м, затем самые сильные и наиболее освещенные ветви располагаем вертикально на двух шпалерах, которые стоят друг напротив друга.
При этом способе формировки количество ветвей также ограничено и они расположены только вертикально, поэтому куст становится плоским. Такое расположение ветвей хорошо тем, что дает возможность высаживать крыжовник на узкой полоске почвы, а это очень ценно для небольших дачных участков."
Read more: http://syperdacha.ru/kry-zhovnik-vy-rashhivanie-i-uhod/#ixzz4G5YZBQb7
Это травки всякие...Тимья́н (чабрец)/Thyme; garden sage/Шалфе́й лека́рственный; Flat-leaved parsley/петрушка...мята!
Мое новое увлечение - Hugelkultur! ...вынужденное увлечение.
Почва у нас на огороде песчаная. Вносили кучу навоза - уходит в песок!)))
Решила попробовать этот метод! Сформировала первую грядку. Хотела сфотографировать весь процесс, но увлеклась...так что первое фото не мое, а из интернета.
Грядка еще не закончена вполне, думаю посадить в нее озимый чеснок или клубнику.
Hugelkultur -which is German for "hill culture" - it's a cool thing to try.
"A lot of times when you grow, says, raspberries, you end up having to water it a lot to keep the raspberries alive, then the raspberry flavor is diminished.
It's kind of watery-flavoredю"
"Whereas, the raspberry plant finds water in the rotted wood from last winter, which is rich in nutrients, which then in turn makes it so that the raspberry flavor is very rich."
You'll find more detailed instructions, including video, on Wheaton's website, Richsoil.com.
А сегодня в нашем городе дождь, тот, которого так не хваталов это холодное и засушливое лето.
Так что мы предались разврату - испекли творожное печенье!
Рецепт на английском в моем блоге!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)