Monday 24 October 2016
Saturday 22 October 2016
Welsh Onions / Japanese Bunching Onions.
- Welsh Onions / Japanese Bunching Onions (the Same Thing) | Sustainable Vegetable Gardening
Welsh onions and Japanese bunching onions are the same thing: Allium Fistulosum. They are recognisable from other onions because they have a round cross section when cutting through the leaves whereas the ordinary onion (Allium Cepa) has a ‘D’ shaped cross section.
Welsh onion is your bog standard type and can be found half a dozen in a small pot in any garden centre in the herb section. They grow big with the help of some compost or fertiliser but the bulb grows no bigger than a shallot and is eaten as a spring onion, leaf, shank and bulb.
The species in my experience (and I fell foul of this) is divided into two and not along the Welsh/Japanese thing. There are two main types, those that divide readily much like a shallot and those that grow into one bigger leak like plant that only rarely divides. For those of us who are interested in sustainability the dividing type is what interests us but the leek type is also cut and come again.
All of them are perennial but only a few will stand well over winter, even in my milder south-west English garden. Most varieties lose their greenery in winter and may rise again next Spring as long as it hasn’t been too cold or the soil too wet.
Unlike most other onions they stay green late in the summer and don’t die back.
Propagation
Division. The dividing types can be, well, divided and replanted.
Eat half and replant half.
I find they divide twice a year but then I am not the best gardener. YMMV.
By seed. It is easy to collect seed.
I collected seed from just one bunch of plants and they produced hundreds of seeds which I sowed two months later and got a very high germination rate.
The plant will put up a flower head on a hard stalk early in its second year.
Wait until the flower starts going dry and you will see little black seeds.
Shake them into a paper envelope and voila.
Varieties
Kyoto Market. One of the best. Divides freely, the greenery stands well over winter. Not the biggest though, but not small either.
Ishikura. Big Japanese leek type but doesn’t easily divide. Cut it to 1 cm above the earth and it will resprout again and again.
Welsh Onion. Divides regularly and quite big but disappears during winter. Most of them should come back early Spring but I have lost some in waterlogged soil. Plants easily bought in garden centres in the herb section.
I’m experimenting with other varieties including White Lisbon Winter Hardy which I hope does what it says on the tin.
- Onion Seed 'Siberian Everlasting' (Welsh Onion)
- Grow leeks from seed (in pictures) | gardenersworld.com
Welsh onions and Japanese bunching onions are the same thing: Allium Fistulosum. They are recognisable from other onions because they have a round cross section when cutting through the leaves whereas the ordinary onion (Allium Cepa) has a ‘D’ shaped cross section.
Welsh onion is your bog standard type and can be found half a dozen in a small pot in any garden centre in the herb section. They grow big with the help of some compost or fertiliser but the bulb grows no bigger than a shallot and is eaten as a spring onion, leaf, shank and bulb.
The species in my experience (and I fell foul of this) is divided into two and not along the Welsh/Japanese thing. There are two main types, those that divide readily much like a shallot and those that grow into one bigger leak like plant that only rarely divides. For those of us who are interested in sustainability the dividing type is what interests us but the leek type is also cut and come again.
All of them are perennial but only a few will stand well over winter, even in my milder south-west English garden. Most varieties lose their greenery in winter and may rise again next Spring as long as it hasn’t been too cold or the soil too wet.
Unlike most other onions they stay green late in the summer and don’t die back.
Propagation
Division. The dividing types can be, well, divided and replanted.
Eat half and replant half.
I find they divide twice a year but then I am not the best gardener. YMMV.
By seed. It is easy to collect seed.
I collected seed from just one bunch of plants and they produced hundreds of seeds which I sowed two months later and got a very high germination rate.
The plant will put up a flower head on a hard stalk early in its second year.
Wait until the flower starts going dry and you will see little black seeds.
Shake them into a paper envelope and voila.
Varieties
Kyoto Market. One of the best. Divides freely, the greenery stands well over winter. Not the biggest though, but not small either.
Ishikura. Big Japanese leek type but doesn’t easily divide. Cut it to 1 cm above the earth and it will resprout again and again.
Welsh Onion. Divides regularly and quite big but disappears during winter. Most of them should come back early Spring but I have lost some in waterlogged soil. Plants easily bought in garden centres in the herb section.
I’m experimenting with other varieties including White Lisbon Winter Hardy which I hope does what it says on the tin.
- Onion Seed 'Siberian Everlasting' (Welsh Onion)
- Grow leeks from seed (in pictures) | gardenersworld.com
Japanese wineberry.
- How to grow Japanese wineberry - Telegraph
- Alys Fowler: Japanese wineberries | Life and style | The Guardian
- propagating japanese wineberry | Out of my shed
Japanese wineberries fruit on the previous year’s growth.
Which means I planted the canes in autumn 2009, the stems grew last year (2010) and this is their first fruiting season (2011).
Achingly simple to propagate, these arching stems will start forming roots as soon as they hit the soil.
After all the fruit has been picked, cut the stems on which the fruit formed down to the ground in late August/September, leaving this years new growth for the plant to fruit on next year.
These very attractive fruit canes will grow in sun or part shade, so a real winner for any part of the garden, potager or allotment.
Best planted bare- rooted in autumn, I bought mine from Ken Muir Fruit Nursery and see they’re also available at Victoriana Nursery.
- Alys Fowler: Japanese wineberries | Life and style | The Guardian
- propagating japanese wineberry | Out of my shed
Japanese wineberries fruit on the previous year’s growth.
Which means I planted the canes in autumn 2009, the stems grew last year (2010) and this is their first fruiting season (2011).
Achingly simple to propagate, these arching stems will start forming roots as soon as they hit the soil.
After all the fruit has been picked, cut the stems on which the fruit formed down to the ground in late August/September, leaving this years new growth for the plant to fruit on next year.
These very attractive fruit canes will grow in sun or part shade, so a real winner for any part of the garden, potager or allotment.
Best planted bare- rooted in autumn, I bought mine from Ken Muir Fruit Nursery and see they’re also available at Victoriana Nursery.
Tuesday 18 October 2016
Trained Fruit.
- Trained Forms Index | An Englishman's Garden Adventures
- Trained Fruit | An Englishman's Garden Adventures
- Current Fans | An Englishman's Garden Adventures
White and red currents lend themselves readily to this kind of training, because unlike black currents they fruit well on ‘old wood’.
Hence, they can be trained to make a permanent framework of branches (in this case in a fan) from which they will produce short fruiting side shoots.
Black currents, on the other hand, will only fruit on relatively young wood – they need a third of their main stems removing every year to rejuvenate them, so could not be pruned to a permanent framework.
- Standard Currant Bushes – how do I grow them? | Fruit Forum
- Buy our Fruit and Ornamental trees from these Garden Centres
- Trained Fruit | An Englishman's Garden Adventures
- Current Fans | An Englishman's Garden Adventures
White and red currents lend themselves readily to this kind of training, because unlike black currents they fruit well on ‘old wood’.
Hence, they can be trained to make a permanent framework of branches (in this case in a fan) from which they will produce short fruiting side shoots.
Black currents, on the other hand, will only fruit on relatively young wood – they need a third of their main stems removing every year to rejuvenate them, so could not be pruned to a permanent framework.
- Standard Currant Bushes – how do I grow them? | Fruit Forum
- Buy our Fruit and Ornamental trees from these Garden Centres
Monday 17 October 2016
Sunday 16 October 2016
Подзимний сев на огороде.
Подзимний сев на огороде - Садовое обозрение
В первую очередь под зиму сеют пряные травы, включая многолетние (мяты, душица, мелисса, бораго и т.д.), многолетние культуры (ревень, спаржа, щавель, черный корень и овсяный корнень, шнитт-лук, слизун и другие многолетние луки).
Важно посеять семена культур, которых содержат большое количество эфирных масел: морковь, пастернак, петрушку, укроп лук-чернушку.
Лучше специальные сорта, но и любые раннеспелые дадут дружные всходы и хороший урожай.
Хорошие результаты дают подзимние посевы свёклы, мангольда, кориандра, шпината.
Отлично всходят листовые салаты, салатная горчица, рукола, редиска и листовые капусты.
Впрочем, капуста всякая хорошо всходит и дает крепкую рассаду.
Вот только кочанные капусты сею на теплую грядку, чтобы как можно раньше весной ее накрыть и получить мощную рассаду уже к началу мая.
Сейчас самое время запастись семенами для подзимнего сева.
Ищите свеклу сортов Северный шар, Подзимняя, Полярная плоская, Холодостойкая-19, морковь Каротель, Нантская, Витаминная, Шантане 2461, Шантане 14.
Семена всех остальных пригодных для подзимнего сева овощных культур выбирайте по принципу скороспелости, а семена чернушки только тех сортов, что способны давать луковицу за один сезон.
В первую очередь под зиму сеют пряные травы, включая многолетние (мяты, душица, мелисса, бораго и т.д.), многолетние культуры (ревень, спаржа, щавель, черный корень и овсяный корнень, шнитт-лук, слизун и другие многолетние луки).
Важно посеять семена культур, которых содержат большое количество эфирных масел: морковь, пастернак, петрушку, укроп лук-чернушку.
Лучше специальные сорта, но и любые раннеспелые дадут дружные всходы и хороший урожай.
Хорошие результаты дают подзимние посевы свёклы, мангольда, кориандра, шпината.
Отлично всходят листовые салаты, салатная горчица, рукола, редиска и листовые капусты.
Впрочем, капуста всякая хорошо всходит и дает крепкую рассаду.
Вот только кочанные капусты сею на теплую грядку, чтобы как можно раньше весной ее накрыть и получить мощную рассаду уже к началу мая.
Сейчас самое время запастись семенами для подзимнего сева.
Ищите свеклу сортов Северный шар, Подзимняя, Полярная плоская, Холодостойкая-19, морковь Каротель, Нантская, Витаминная, Шантане 2461, Шантане 14.
Семена всех остальных пригодных для подзимнего сева овощных культур выбирайте по принципу скороспелости, а семена чернушки только тех сортов, что способны давать луковицу за один сезон.
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