Сельдерей пахучий — Википедия
- Celery - сельдере́й паху́чий, или Сельдерей души́стый, или Сельдерей культу́рный (лат. Ápium graveólens) — двулетнее растение.
- Celeriac - сельдерей - корнеплодный сельдерей.
Видовое название этого растения походит от латинского «graveolens» (gravis – «сильный, резкий» и olens – «пахнущий»).
Английское celery, французское celery, немецкое sellerie, шведское, норвежское и финское seller, эстонское sella и русское сельдерей восходят к греческому названию «selinon».
Существует три разновидности сельдерея: листовой, черешковый и корневой.
Листовой сельдерей популярен в кулинарии благодаря зелени с насыщенным пряным ароматом, корневой – знаменит своими ароматными белыми кореньями.
У корнеплодного сельдерея корень шаровидный либо округло-плоский, мясистый; у черешкового и листового – корневая система мочковатая.
Корневой сельдерей: выращивание и использование
- Корневой сельдерей
Are celeriac leaves edible?
- Yes, you can use them in your soup or stew but VERY sparingly as they are strongly flavoured.
- Dry them in the oven on low heat and blend with sea salt for your own celery(iac) salt.
Thursday, 28 April 2016
Tuesday, 26 April 2016
Create woven hazel edging for own veg beds.
- dorsethurdles.co.uk
Dorset coppice worker based on the Drax Estate producing hazel hurdles, rose arches, spar and spar gads, pea sticks and bean poles and hedge-laying. All hand made using sustainably sourced hazel.
David Partridge
2 Holmebridge Cottages
East Stoke
Wareham
Dorset
BH20 6AF
- Pea Sticks (12)- £5
- Bean Poles (11)- £8.50 a bundle
Monty Don's Very nice willow work.
Monday, 25 April 2016
Thymus pulegioides.
Thymus pulegioides - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
- common names broad-leaved thyme, lemon thyme.
Suitable for cultivation in any well-drained alkaline or neutral soil in full sun, this ornamental thyme is useful as groundcover, but can also be used like thyme in cooking.
- common names broad-leaved thyme, lemon thyme.
Suitable for cultivation in any well-drained alkaline or neutral soil in full sun, this ornamental thyme is useful as groundcover, but can also be used like thyme in cooking.
Из чего создать живую изгородь?
Из чего создать живую изгородь? - Садовое обозрение
Варианта два: первый для живой изгороди, которую формуют не только на начальном этапе, но и обрезают 2 раза за сезон; второе – для свободно растущей изгороди, которую обрезают только в год посадки для лучшего кущения и даже проводят только по необходимости санитарные обрезки.
Для обрезаемой живой изгороди рекомендую:
бирючину (Ligustrum vulgare)
дерен белый (Сornus alba)
кизильник (Cotoneaster lucidus)
смородину альпийскую (Ribes alpinum)
смородину золотистую (Ribes aureum)
спирея дубравколистная (Spiraea chamaediyfolia L.).
Для свободно растущей изгороди рекомендую:
барбарис Тунберга (Berberis thunbergii)
лапчатка кустарниковая (Pentaphylloides fruticosa)
пузыреплодник калинолистный (Physocarpus opulifolius)
спирея дубравколистная (Spiraea chamaediyfolia L.)
спирея японская (Spiraea japonica)
чубушник Лемуана (Philadelphos lemoinei).
Все они быстро размножаются, хорошо реагируют на обрезку, декоративны с начала и до конца сезона.
А что из обрезаемого быстрее всего растет?
смородины и дерен.
Варианта два: первый для живой изгороди, которую формуют не только на начальном этапе, но и обрезают 2 раза за сезон; второе – для свободно растущей изгороди, которую обрезают только в год посадки для лучшего кущения и даже проводят только по необходимости санитарные обрезки.
Для обрезаемой живой изгороди рекомендую:
бирючину (Ligustrum vulgare)
дерен белый (Сornus alba)
кизильник (Cotoneaster lucidus)
смородину альпийскую (Ribes alpinum)
смородину золотистую (Ribes aureum)
спирея дубравколистная (Spiraea chamaediyfolia L.).
Для свободно растущей изгороди рекомендую:
барбарис Тунберга (Berberis thunbergii)
лапчатка кустарниковая (Pentaphylloides fruticosa)
пузыреплодник калинолистный (Physocarpus opulifolius)
спирея дубравколистная (Spiraea chamaediyfolia L.)
спирея японская (Spiraea japonica)
чубушник Лемуана (Philadelphos lemoinei).
Все они быстро размножаются, хорошо реагируют на обрезку, декоративны с начала и до конца сезона.
А что из обрезаемого быстрее всего растет?
смородины и дерен.
Sunday, 17 April 2016
Prunus 'Taihaku' by Sarah Raven.
In focus: Prunus 'Taihaku' - Telegraph
These were thought thought to have become extinct until one was discovered growing in a Sussex garden in 1923 by Collingwood Ingram, a plant collector and gardener, who had it propogated and saved it for the world.
A great white cherry tree from Japan (Prunus Tai Haku).
'Taihaku' blossoms are twice the size of the average cherry.
'Tai-Haku' means big, white flowers.
It sets these flowers against a perfect background: they emerge at exactly the same time as the bronze, ragged-edged leaves.
Later in the year, the leaves will turn green, but this first flush of purity against metallic leaves is the tree's glory moment.
It bears no fruit.
You can grow the prunus on any soil and it will flower in a few years.
So where to put one? It sits perfectly surrounded by grass. It is fine in a lawn but even better in long grass. Or clothe the roots with snowdrops to flower as the buds fatten in the early spring.
Plant it at a shady end of the garden which needs some drama.
That is where I've planted mine, filling in a bare and boring place near the north and eastern corner of a native hedge.
Underneath, I've planted the purest-white orientalis hybrid hellebores.
There are clumps of pure white bleeding heart, Dicentra spectabilis 'Alba' and arching wands of Solomon's seal.
- MONTY DON: Spring blooms are just a starter for the season's main course - a riot of flowering cherry trees | Daily Mail Online
"I have Prunus serrulata 'Tai Haku', which has spindly branches dropping an extraordinary bundle of huge white blossoms, hanging like delicate explosions of petal freeze-framed in mid-air.
It is a cherry with an astonishing story, too: a legendary tree in Japan until it disappeared at the end of the 18th century, it was apparently unknown anywhere else in the world.
Then, in 1923, the owner of a Sussex garden showed Captain Collingwood Ingram – an expert on Japanese cherries – an unidentified cherry with gorgeous white flowers. Captain Ingram was unable to recognise it but took grafts and passed the resulting saplings around.
The next time he went to Japan he was shown an 18th-century book of flower paintings and recognised the hitherto unidentified white cherry from the Sussex garden.
As far as the Japanese were concerned, however, 'Tai Haku' had disappeared and could not possibly have popped up a hundred years later in England. It really does appear, though, that every Tai Haku in cultivation – which vanished from Japan 200 years ago – inexplicably comes from that Sussex tree found 87 years ago."
- Prunus Tai Haku - Hill Cherry Tree | Mail Order Trees
These were thought thought to have become extinct until one was discovered growing in a Sussex garden in 1923 by Collingwood Ingram, a plant collector and gardener, who had it propogated and saved it for the world.
A great white cherry tree from Japan (Prunus Tai Haku).
'Taihaku' blossoms are twice the size of the average cherry.
'Tai-Haku' means big, white flowers.
It sets these flowers against a perfect background: they emerge at exactly the same time as the bronze, ragged-edged leaves.
Later in the year, the leaves will turn green, but this first flush of purity against metallic leaves is the tree's glory moment.
It bears no fruit.
You can grow the prunus on any soil and it will flower in a few years.
So where to put one? It sits perfectly surrounded by grass. It is fine in a lawn but even better in long grass. Or clothe the roots with snowdrops to flower as the buds fatten in the early spring.
Plant it at a shady end of the garden which needs some drama.
That is where I've planted mine, filling in a bare and boring place near the north and eastern corner of a native hedge.
Underneath, I've planted the purest-white orientalis hybrid hellebores.
There are clumps of pure white bleeding heart, Dicentra spectabilis 'Alba' and arching wands of Solomon's seal.
- MONTY DON: Spring blooms are just a starter for the season's main course - a riot of flowering cherry trees | Daily Mail Online
"I have Prunus serrulata 'Tai Haku', which has spindly branches dropping an extraordinary bundle of huge white blossoms, hanging like delicate explosions of petal freeze-framed in mid-air.
It is a cherry with an astonishing story, too: a legendary tree in Japan until it disappeared at the end of the 18th century, it was apparently unknown anywhere else in the world.
Then, in 1923, the owner of a Sussex garden showed Captain Collingwood Ingram – an expert on Japanese cherries – an unidentified cherry with gorgeous white flowers. Captain Ingram was unable to recognise it but took grafts and passed the resulting saplings around.
The next time he went to Japan he was shown an 18th-century book of flower paintings and recognised the hitherto unidentified white cherry from the Sussex garden.
As far as the Japanese were concerned, however, 'Tai Haku' had disappeared and could not possibly have popped up a hundred years later in England. It really does appear, though, that every Tai Haku in cultivation – which vanished from Japan 200 years ago – inexplicably comes from that Sussex tree found 87 years ago."
- Prunus Tai Haku - Hill Cherry Tree | Mail Order Trees
Wednesday, 6 April 2016
Как ускорить прорастание семян пряных трав.
Как ускорить прорастание семян пряных трав » "Газета садовод" - сетевое издание
В день запланированной посадки провожу предпосевную обработку семян.
Высыпаю их в литровую банку и заливаю горячей водой (40-50°С).
Семена выдерживаю в банке до полного остывания воды, периодически перемешивая содержимое.
После сливаю воду через сито и повторяю процедуру еще 1-2 раза.
Обычно уже после первой «горячей ванны» семечки становятся менее ароматными, то есть теряют основную долю эфирных масел.
Далее наливаю в стакан немного водки и еще четверть часа выдерживаю в ней семена, после чего промываю их чистой водой.
Затем их просушиваю до сыпучего состояния и высеваю на заранее подготовленную грядку.
В день запланированной посадки провожу предпосевную обработку семян.
Высыпаю их в литровую банку и заливаю горячей водой (40-50°С).
Семена выдерживаю в банке до полного остывания воды, периодически перемешивая содержимое.
После сливаю воду через сито и повторяю процедуру еще 1-2 раза.
Обычно уже после первой «горячей ванны» семечки становятся менее ароматными, то есть теряют основную долю эфирных масел.
Далее наливаю в стакан немного водки и еще четверть часа выдерживаю в ней семена, после чего промываю их чистой водой.
Затем их просушиваю до сыпучего состояния и высеваю на заранее подготовленную грядку.
Tuesday, 5 April 2016
Огурцы на шпалере.
Огурцы на шпалере » "Газета садовод" - сетевое издание
Сделать шпалеру совсем несложно.
Все что вам нужно - это пара деревянных кольев, да моток жесткой проволоки и килограмм-полтора средних по размерам гвоздей.
Гвозди нужно пробить сквозь жерди так, чтобы шляпка не вошла полностью, а торчала примерно на 0,5 см из жерди.
Вбивать гвозди, нужно начиная снизу, отступив примерно 50-60 см, эту часть мы погрузим в почву и потому гвозди там не нужны.
Далее вбить гвозди следует до высоты примерно два метра через 10 см, таким образом, жерди нам нужны длиной метра 2 – 2,5 (не забываем, что длина плетей доходит до трех метров).
Далее необходимо вкопать эти жерди и надежно закрепить в почве, а между ними, закрепив за шляпки гвоздей, натянуть несколько рядов жесткой проволоки.
Расстояние между жердями должно соответствовать длине рядка, на котором вы и высадите огуречную рассаду или посеете семена огурца.
Появляющиеся плети нужно подвязывать к проволоке с самого раннего возраста, периодически закрепляя их с помощью бечевки все выше и выше на шпалере.
Обычно приходится еженедельно проводить эту операцию, да, это дополнительные затраты труда, но поверьте это того стоит.
Для того чтобы достичь максимального успеха нужно подвязывать все росточки огуречного растения.
Петельку следует изначально подвязать над третьим либо четвертым листочком, после чего бечевку обмотать вокруг стебелька и уже потом привязать ее к шпалере на бантик.
На два узла завязывать не следует, ведь довольно скоро вам придется перевязывать плеть, развязать узел-бантик гораздо проще.
Чтобы растения на шпалере чувствовали себя максимально комфортно размещать ее на участке лучше ориентируясь по сторонам света, а именно с запада на восток, так растения будут освещаться гораздо равномернее, чем при размещении шпалеры с севера на юг.
Прекрасно, если с северной стороны шпалеры будет размещаться стена дома или забора, либо куст с плотной кроной, ведь дополнительная защита от холодного ветра никогда не помешает.
Сделать шпалеру совсем несложно.
Все что вам нужно - это пара деревянных кольев, да моток жесткой проволоки и килограмм-полтора средних по размерам гвоздей.
Гвозди нужно пробить сквозь жерди так, чтобы шляпка не вошла полностью, а торчала примерно на 0,5 см из жерди.
Вбивать гвозди, нужно начиная снизу, отступив примерно 50-60 см, эту часть мы погрузим в почву и потому гвозди там не нужны.
Далее вбить гвозди следует до высоты примерно два метра через 10 см, таким образом, жерди нам нужны длиной метра 2 – 2,5 (не забываем, что длина плетей доходит до трех метров).
Далее необходимо вкопать эти жерди и надежно закрепить в почве, а между ними, закрепив за шляпки гвоздей, натянуть несколько рядов жесткой проволоки.
Расстояние между жердями должно соответствовать длине рядка, на котором вы и высадите огуречную рассаду или посеете семена огурца.
Появляющиеся плети нужно подвязывать к проволоке с самого раннего возраста, периодически закрепляя их с помощью бечевки все выше и выше на шпалере.
Обычно приходится еженедельно проводить эту операцию, да, это дополнительные затраты труда, но поверьте это того стоит.
Для того чтобы достичь максимального успеха нужно подвязывать все росточки огуречного растения.
Петельку следует изначально подвязать над третьим либо четвертым листочком, после чего бечевку обмотать вокруг стебелька и уже потом привязать ее к шпалере на бантик.
На два узла завязывать не следует, ведь довольно скоро вам придется перевязывать плеть, развязать узел-бантик гораздо проще.
Чтобы растения на шпалере чувствовали себя максимально комфортно размещать ее на участке лучше ориентируясь по сторонам света, а именно с запада на восток, так растения будут освещаться гораздо равномернее, чем при размещении шпалеры с севера на юг.
Прекрасно, если с северной стороны шпалеры будет размещаться стена дома или забора, либо куст с плотной кроной, ведь дополнительная защита от холодного ветра никогда не помешает.
The Benefits of Growing Borage
The Benefits of Growing Borage :
- I found a partial answer by growing borage at opposite edges of a cucumber bed.
- Companions:
Tomato, Squash, Strawberry and Pepper.
A good companion for any crop that needs strong defense from insects.
Borage attracts large buzzing insects that dominate their air space.
- I found a partial answer by growing borage at opposite edges of a cucumber bed.
- Companions:
Tomato, Squash, Strawberry and Pepper.
A good companion for any crop that needs strong defense from insects.
Borage attracts large buzzing insects that dominate their air space.
Sunday, 3 April 2016
How to grow an amelanchier.
How to grow an amelanchier - Saga
A very beautiful, small, North American tree that is attractive in all seasons, even in winter when its spreading crown of fine shoots makes a satisfying, dense, shrubby shape.
In March the branches erupt with a froth of star-shaped flowers in lax conical heads, just as the coppery pink young leaves unfold - in summer these are yellowish green, but later turn scarlet and crimson.
In July the tree is studded with dark red berries which become purple-black as they ripen.
The Royal Horticultural Society has given it the Award of Garden Merit (AGM).
They are not fussy, but they don’t do well on limey soil.
An amelanchier's white blossom and dark foliage make a perfect foil for dark, sultry tulips or a mixture of pink and purple tulips.
These could be planted in November or December.
Choose late-April or May-flowering varieties to coincide with the amelanchier flowers.
The best three amelanchiers
Amelanchier x grandiflora 'Robin Hill'
(6 - 8 m)
A recently introduced cultivar which has clusters of pink buds that open into pale pink flowers in spring.
These flowers then fade to white before falling.
Edible berries follow from June until August.
The young leaves are an attractive bronze colour when they first emerge, darkening to a lush green in late spring and summer.
In the autumn they turning vivid shades or orange/deep-red before falling.
Forms a small garden tree.
Amelanchier lamarckii 'Ballerina'
(4 - 5 m)
A delightful, low maintenance shrub or small tree which is covered with large white flowers in spring.
In spring/summer, the leaves are an attractive, cool green turning shades of bright red/orange /gold in the autumn before falling.
A superb choice for planting as a either a stand-alone specimen or as part of a mixed border.
Amelanchier ovalis 'Edelweiss'
(3 - 4 m)
A slower-growing amelanchier, a native of Central and Southern Europe, has six-inch long panicles of white flowers in late spring.
The leaves are a pink-bronze when young, darkening to cool green in spring and summer before turning to eye-catching shades of orange, red and yellow in a crisp autumn.
Once established, this tree produces small black fruit in mid to late summer which are popular with birds.
A superb ornamental plant which is suitable for gardens of most sizes.
A very beautiful, small, North American tree that is attractive in all seasons, even in winter when its spreading crown of fine shoots makes a satisfying, dense, shrubby shape.
In March the branches erupt with a froth of star-shaped flowers in lax conical heads, just as the coppery pink young leaves unfold - in summer these are yellowish green, but later turn scarlet and crimson.
In July the tree is studded with dark red berries which become purple-black as they ripen.
The Royal Horticultural Society has given it the Award of Garden Merit (AGM).
They are not fussy, but they don’t do well on limey soil.
An amelanchier's white blossom and dark foliage make a perfect foil for dark, sultry tulips or a mixture of pink and purple tulips.
These could be planted in November or December.
Choose late-April or May-flowering varieties to coincide with the amelanchier flowers.
The best three amelanchiers
Amelanchier x grandiflora 'Robin Hill'
(6 - 8 m)
A recently introduced cultivar which has clusters of pink buds that open into pale pink flowers in spring.
These flowers then fade to white before falling.
Edible berries follow from June until August.
The young leaves are an attractive bronze colour when they first emerge, darkening to a lush green in late spring and summer.
In the autumn they turning vivid shades or orange/deep-red before falling.
Forms a small garden tree.
Amelanchier lamarckii 'Ballerina'
(4 - 5 m)
A delightful, low maintenance shrub or small tree which is covered with large white flowers in spring.
In spring/summer, the leaves are an attractive, cool green turning shades of bright red/orange /gold in the autumn before falling.
A superb choice for planting as a either a stand-alone specimen or as part of a mixed border.
Amelanchier ovalis 'Edelweiss'
(3 - 4 m)
A slower-growing amelanchier, a native of Central and Southern Europe, has six-inch long panicles of white flowers in late spring.
The leaves are a pink-bronze when young, darkening to cool green in spring and summer before turning to eye-catching shades of orange, red and yellow in a crisp autumn.
Once established, this tree produces small black fruit in mid to late summer which are popular with birds.
A superb ornamental plant which is suitable for gardens of most sizes.
Brunnera macrophylla /Siberian bugloss.
Brunnera macrophylla | Siberian bugloss/RHS Gardening
Siberian Bugloss, False Forget Me Not, Heartleaf Brunnera
Striking panicles of tiny blue-violet flowers often appear before the large heart shaped leaves develop in early spring.
Many people confuse this hardy worker with Virginia Bluebells or Forget-Me-Nots.
Brunnera is happiest in humus rich constantly moist, part shade or shady areas and will self sow in the right conditions.
Cultivated forms include white flowers and variegated foliage.
Showy plants are all very well, but a garden needs robust, dependable and modest plants that don't require constant attention.
Brunnera macrophylla, with its 20in-tall (50cm) airy sprays of blue forget-me-not flowers and dense mounds of neat foliage, is a mainstay of many shady gardens, but rarely receives plaudits.
'Jack Frost' and became a star of the shady garden.
The bright blue flowers last longer than those of the species, starting in February and continuing to June, and make a spectacular partnership with the silver foliage.
Breeders are producing more cultivars.
'Looking Glass' has leaves that are even more silvery, without the green margin that adds to 'Jack Frost's' beauty.
Another silver-leaved form, 'Mr Morse', has white flowers.
This gives none of the striking effect of blue flowers against silver leaves and is rather insipid.
'Betty Bowring' is floriferous and long-flowering.
The bright white flowers make a dramatic contrast with the dark green foliage.
'Betty Bowring' and 'Jack Frost' are beautiful plants that have lifted the profile of brunnera.
Brunnera needs to be grown away from direct sunlight.
The dappled shade under deciduous trees and shrubs is ideal.
Good companions Brunnera makes good groundcover and mass plantings in flower are a spectacular sight.
Dicentra spectabilis 'Alba' enjoys the same conditions as brunnera and the arching stems of its white flowers mingling with the froth of blue flowers and reflecting the silver foliage of 'Jack Frost' is a beautiful partnership.
The dark foliage and deep blue flowers of Geranium pratense 'Hocus Pocus' are enhanced by the silver foliage of 'Jack Frost' long after the brunnera has stopped flowering.
- Brunnera: How to grow - Telegraph
- Guide to woodland plants or plants for shade : Plants for shade blog
Siberian Bugloss, False Forget Me Not, Heartleaf Brunnera
Striking panicles of tiny blue-violet flowers often appear before the large heart shaped leaves develop in early spring.
Many people confuse this hardy worker with Virginia Bluebells or Forget-Me-Nots.
Brunnera is happiest in humus rich constantly moist, part shade or shady areas and will self sow in the right conditions.
Cultivated forms include white flowers and variegated foliage.
Showy plants are all very well, but a garden needs robust, dependable and modest plants that don't require constant attention.
Brunnera macrophylla, with its 20in-tall (50cm) airy sprays of blue forget-me-not flowers and dense mounds of neat foliage, is a mainstay of many shady gardens, but rarely receives plaudits.
'Jack Frost' and became a star of the shady garden.
The bright blue flowers last longer than those of the species, starting in February and continuing to June, and make a spectacular partnership with the silver foliage.
Breeders are producing more cultivars.
'Looking Glass' has leaves that are even more silvery, without the green margin that adds to 'Jack Frost's' beauty.
Another silver-leaved form, 'Mr Morse', has white flowers.
This gives none of the striking effect of blue flowers against silver leaves and is rather insipid.
'Betty Bowring' is floriferous and long-flowering.
The bright white flowers make a dramatic contrast with the dark green foliage.
'Betty Bowring' and 'Jack Frost' are beautiful plants that have lifted the profile of brunnera.
Brunnera needs to be grown away from direct sunlight.
The dappled shade under deciduous trees and shrubs is ideal.
Good companions Brunnera makes good groundcover and mass plantings in flower are a spectacular sight.
Dicentra spectabilis 'Alba' enjoys the same conditions as brunnera and the arching stems of its white flowers mingling with the froth of blue flowers and reflecting the silver foliage of 'Jack Frost' is a beautiful partnership.
The dark foliage and deep blue flowers of Geranium pratense 'Hocus Pocus' are enhanced by the silver foliage of 'Jack Frost' long after the brunnera has stopped flowering.
- Brunnera: How to grow - Telegraph
- Guide to woodland plants or plants for shade : Plants for shade blog
Sanguinaria.
Sanguinaria canadensis f.multiplex - Perennial & Biennial Plants - Thompson & Morgan
You can also propagate bloodroot flowers from root division at any time. Plant sections of the root ½ to 1 inch deep in an acidic, organic- rich soil in a location with only dappled sun.
The display that a clump of Sanguinaria can make, in a humus rich spot such as a peat garden, in early spring, is not to be missed.
Available for ordering from both our Autumn and Spring lists, though the species range will vary between lists.
Sanguinaria Canadensis
The important alkaloid Sanguinarin is contained in this seasonal herb.
He doesn’t destroy the healthy cells and has great capacity to destroy cancerous cells.
It is used orally and externally against skin cancer and also helps in fightint against other forms of cancer.
- Guide to woodland plants or plants for shade : Plants for shade blog
You can also propagate bloodroot flowers from root division at any time. Plant sections of the root ½ to 1 inch deep in an acidic, organic- rich soil in a location with only dappled sun.
The display that a clump of Sanguinaria can make, in a humus rich spot such as a peat garden, in early spring, is not to be missed.
Available for ordering from both our Autumn and Spring lists, though the species range will vary between lists.
Sanguinaria Canadensis
The important alkaloid Sanguinarin is contained in this seasonal herb.
He doesn’t destroy the healthy cells and has great capacity to destroy cancerous cells.
It is used orally and externally against skin cancer and also helps in fightint against other forms of cancer.
- Guide to woodland plants or plants for shade : Plants for shade blog
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